Alaia

True To Azzedine. Alaïa AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Thanks god the maison of Alaïa has no plans to find an outside designer or change anything about the brand. The spirit of Azzedine Alaïa is in every single piece from the autumn-winter 2019 lookbook. Like the previous season, the offering encompasses three ranges: a collection of new pieces that feel close to the master’s vision and aesthetic, the Édition archive capsule (this season it’s all about the butterfly print from autumn-winter 1991 collection), and Éditions Limitées, which is positioned as demi-couture and available only by appointment. Karim Sadli is behind the camera, while the styling is Joe McKenna’s job (two individuals, who worked with Azzedine on his collections’ image). From impeccable tailoring to gorgeous, gorgeus eveningwear, the collection is consistent and completely true to the founder’s vocabulary. Those who know what’s an Alaïa dress like will definitely stay with the brand – forever.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

(The Last Moment) Great Gifts To Give!

| Design & Culture by Ed

Giving gifts is a special moment. But what’s even more special is finding them! Here’s a (pretty much) last moment guide of great gifts to give this Christmas to your closest (or to yourself, of course). Scroll down for magical pearl pendants, surreal ceramic mugs, hand-crafted bags, very pricey vintage, heaven scents and incredible, statement pieces! And a few blankets, of course.

This The Vampire’s Wife velvet silk blend dress in red is fit for a Christmas dinner goddess.

Ormaie Paris is about perfumes that will blow your mind sensually and visually (just look at their fabulous flacons). I want Toï Toï Toï, which means a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform. The fragrance evokes the polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. More here.

Phaidon re-released Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue. And, yes, it’s signed by Grace Coddington. Click, click. Adding it to my cart.

This Loewe bunny bag is so cuuuute. Maybe it’s not a life necessity, but then… why not? Available right here.

Boston’s Covet & Lou has some statement pieces that will perfectly fit under the Christmas tree. How about this A Détacher skirt and No.6 fur loafers?

The XXL faux fur bag from Pajonk (a Polish brand worth having on your radar) will be there for you in 2019, I guarantee you. More up on the designer’s site.

Re-See Paris has the best, hand-picked vintage out there. Chosing two things is hard, while chosing one is impossible. Treat yourself with a vintage Vogue and their delicious Alaïa selection.

Lemaire‘s molded leather bag in yellow equals a dream bag.

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NET-A-PORTER Limited

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What a boy really want is this Haider Ackermann reversible velvet bomber jacket. No explanations needed.

Alighieri has some of the most beautiful and magical pendants out there. This one from Matches is gold-plated and has a baroque-inspired pearl. A true treasure.

When I saw those new season jug bags from Rosie Assoulin, I instantly felt in love with their authentic artiness. They are still on pre-order, but maybe it’s worth waiting a bit and receive your Christmas gift as good start of 2019? Some are made with a latex-and-pigment combination, inspired with Gaetano Pesce’s iconic furniture. Love.

I’m not sure if at the time I’m writing this, they aren’t all gone. Botticelli Ceramics proves that some of the most incredible things can be found right here, on Instagram. I’m dying to get my hands on one of those very limited edition, one-of-a-kind ceramics coming straight from Marc Armitano Domingo’s studio.  “Inspired by art, Wunderkammer, and music from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries”, Marc creates plates and mugs with 3D flowers, bees, boobies and eyes. And not only. Too obsessed with those artworks. You can buy them here.

This Jacquemus straw hat continues to break the internet. Enter the new year boldly, wearing it with an outfit as warm as Simone Porte’s favourite, beach-y colour palette.

Acne Studios is always filled with goodies. Please consider their new limited edition interior décor, just like the new men’s knits. Wouldn’t mind spending an evening covered up with all that fleecy wool!

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Let’s carry on. Maryam Nassir Zadeh has this 100% virgin wool sweater. That’s a gift that will keep on giving for years!

If you read my journal, you might already know my major obsession with everything Mondo Mondo does. The Janus ring (available in sterling silver and brass) is a must-have from this Los Angeles-based brand.

Blame Jeff Goldblum for making those Prada shirts so flame hot. Forever on my wishlist.

Another thing a guy will love: Bode‘s quilted jacket. This workwear jacket is made from a 1940’s album–patterned quilt. The quilt contains bits and pieces of men’s shirting, as well as a number of other checked cotton fabrics. Will look perfect with a pair of corduroy pants, as well coming from this New York-based brand.

Byredo‘s Eleventh Hour is an experience of its own kind, I tell you. You will get completely addicted.

If somebody ever gifts me this Calvin Klein 205W39NYC x Pendleton wool and cotton-blend blanket, I will marry them immediately.

Hope my public Santa Claus letter helps a bit!

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NET-A-PORTER Limited

With Respect. Alaïa SS19

| Design & Culture by Ed

The sudden death of Azzedine Alaïa, the master couturier who understood a woman’s body like no one else, hasn’t only deprived the fashion world of an ultimate genius, but as well left his brand in an uncertain position. The spring-summer 2019 look-book that was released last week, however, assures that Alaïa – as a fashion house – isn’t going the wrong path and won’t end its existence as many French houses did after their founders passed away (waiting for years to be bought by a bored millionaire). The Maison Alaïa studio team proves to be loyal to the brand’s codes, and what’s more, isn’t lead by an outside creative director. All the people who work on today’s Alaïa collections were trained by Azzedine himself. Many pieces from the new collection aren’t that new. The offering comprises separate collections, éditions, that consist of archive pieces that have been perfectly replicated as new ready-to-wear and labeled according to original dates. A denim jacket from 1986. The striped dress is from 1990. Another gown saw its runway debut back in 1984. Cotton shirtdresses and woven raffia details were mastered in Azzedine’s last collections to perfection, and they reappear here too, just like python leather garments. The soul of Alaïa is there, in each cut and stitch. The effect is more than beautiful, and you really wish of seeing these clothes in real life. It’s a tribute collection, but not in a Versace spring-summer 2018 way. The studio is expected to rework Alaïa’s original designs in future collections, supplying the stores with the brand’s all-time classics.

Still, there are few new additions that smell with forced commerce: espadrilles made in  collaboration with Castañer (ok, that must be heaven comfort) and a capsule collection of dresses, t-shirts and accessories emblazoned with the words Mon cœur est à papa, the expression of love attributed to Naomi Campbell, who considered the Alaïa her father figure. This isn’t presented in the new season look-book (shot by Karim Sadli and styled by long-time friend of the house, Joe McKenna), but, well, it’s a necessity that just has to be accepted. By the way, for the nay-sayers, Alaïa himself did a capsule collection of logo t-shirts in collaboration with Comme des Garçons back in the 90s (very treasured vintage). No one will return Azzedine. But it’s a great relief that his heritage is in good hands and his fashion continues to be praised with so much grace and respect.

 

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.