Father, I’ve Sinned! Valentino AW26

March 15, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele has added spice – and flame – to his Valentino, and it has been working particularly well lately. First came his toned-down, poetic spring collection, the only show of the season that truly approached the dread of a world on the brink of WWIII. Then followed his vivacious sophomore couture collection, presented just over a week after Valentino Garavani’s passing, which made the fashion heavens rave. And now, the autumn–winter 2026 lineup, presented not in the usual Paris but in Rome, the brand’s home, core, hot-red heart.

This was Valentino through and through, yet captured through Michele’s new perspective. It is rich and full, yes, but he somehow manages to express that opulence in a clean, clear way (forget the heaviness of his Gucci days). His clothes no longer look as if they have been pulled straight from a vintage store or a forgotten attic. The dramatic glamour is still there, but it is glitched – awkwardly so – making it far more intriguing.

Bow-tied belts cinched full-length furs; color-blocked pleated tunics; lace dresses with butterfly-wing-shaped skirts. It is Rome, after all, so there is an inherent tension between the ecclesiastical and the regal, and the naughty, decadent, Fellini-esque spirit of the city. These women go to church on Sunday – but they as easily live a full-on, hedonistic “La Grande Bellezza” life (a dialogue Demna attempted to spark with his Gucci runway debut, but, to me, failed miserably). One aspect that could perhaps be reconsidered is the casting. Adding a few more mature faces would make the collection feel even more vivid and charismatic, as some of the barely twenty-year-old models – likely exhausted by the fashion month marathon – appeared somewhat pale.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Fetishique 105 Metallic Leather Slingback Sandals

Valentino Garavani Cropped Satin-trimmed Woven Blazer

Valentino Garavani Velvet-trimmed Satin-crepe Maxi Skirt

Valentino Garavani Bowow 25 Suede-trimmed Leopard-print Calf Hair Pumps

Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Ribbed Cotton-blend And Wool And Silk-blend Crepe Jacket

Valentino Garavani Viva Superstar Medium Leopard-print Calf Hair Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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La Grande Bellezza. Valentino SS26 Couture

January 29, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele’s second haute couture collection for Valentino is galaxies away from what he showed last year. Out with the heavy; in with the elevating. It’s purely Michele, yet it finally feels like Valentino – meaning la grande bellezza. It was clear the designer felt an added duty to deliver, and to make Garavani smile from fashion heaven. Viewed through the peepholes – or glory holes! – of circular Kaiserpanoramas, the collection became a voyeur’s dream. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Shearling-trimmed Leopard-print Wool Coat

Valentino Garavani Belted Ruffled Embellished Silk-georgette Gown

Valentino Garavani Rockoco Embellished Taffeta-trimmed Suede Pumps

Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Ruched Wool-crepe Wrap Jacket

Valentino Garavani Velvet-trimmed Satin-crepe Maxi Skirt

Valentino Garavani Fringed Beaded Satin Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Cleanse. Valentino Pre-Fall 2026

December 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Remember Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Gucci – the one created in less than a month? Despite its sumptuous, vintage-inflected richness, it was ultimately minimalist, in much the same way a Pre-Raphaelite painting can be. Now creative director of Valentino for nearly two years, Michele appears to be deliberately moving toward a “less is more” mode, however paradoxical that may sound given his well-known affection for dramatic grandeur.

His poetic spring-summer 2026 collection offered the first indication of this reductionist—yet still deeply romantic – direction, and pre-fall 2026 continues that trajectory. A lilac polka-dot tunic layered over a sheer lace slip, a regal grey cape-coat fastened with a butterfly brooch, and a Valentino-red evening dress stripped of all excess save for a single, incisive drape exemplify this new restraint.

Michele has described this process as a gradual “cleansing” of his relationship with the house, an attempt to find equilibrium between excess and austerity. He has acknowledged that his approach to Valentino’s legacy is deeply personal and, for some, even unsettling, given the unmistakable strength of his hand. Yet he sees the pre-fall lookbook as a moment of convergence between himself and the brand – a space in which he feels markedly more at ease. In his words, it is irreverent and uncomfortable in precisely the right measure, suggesting that he has “disrespected” the house just enough to finally allow it to breathe. Such self-reflection (and self-criticism) is rare among contemporary fashion designers, and Michele’s candour deserves recognition.

The collection’s line-up of Bambi-printed jackets, boudoir-inspired lace separates, and blunt denim miniskirts is sharpened further by his first reinterpretation of Valentino’s “Rockstud” – arguably one of the most divisive shoes in modern fashion. In Michele’s hands, it becomes metal-tipped, ankle-strapped, shaper, and balanced on a pin-thin heel. I remain undecided about the result, but Michele’s work has always demanded time to fully resonate.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Bead-embellished Embroidered High-rise Straight-leg Jeans

Valentino Garavani Ribbed Silk Top

Valentino Garavani Feather-trimmed Satin Midi Skirt

Valentino Garavani Vlogo Stud-embellished Leather Sandals

Valentino Garavani Bracelet in Metal, Enamel and Swarovski Crystals

Valentino Garavani Strapless Pleated Ruffled Polka-dot Silk-chiffon Gown

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Leather Pumps

Valentino Garavani Gold-tone, Crystal, Faux Pearl And Resin Earrings

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Attic Magic. Valentino SS26

October 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Unpopular opinion: I loved Alessandro Michele’s Valentino collection. It seems many people don’t connect with his vision for the house the way they did with his Gucci era. Rumors are already swirling that the designer may be leaving after just three seasons, but I truly hope that isn’t true – he’s only just warming up, still in a chrysalis stage of transformation.

This season, Michele toned down the theatrics, yet I felt he sublimated his signature “attic magic” into something deeply sincere, vulnerable, and ultimately chic. The collection, poignantly titled “Fireflies“, lived up to its name: the models appeared like delicate, enchanting fireflies gliding through a vast, sci-fi-esque setting.

The first look – a gathered peacock-blue blouse tied with bows at the collar and hem, paired with chartreuse satin pants whose hems hugged the heels of the model’s shoes – felt retro-tinged yet somehow modern. Equally striking were a marvelous zebra-printed blouse and a black velvet evening dress adorned with a single pink feather at the V-neck. Another standout was a pleated orange top worn with a simple pair of jeans: so innocent, effortless, and spontaneous. Lana Del Rey sat front row at the show with her family: it all made sense. They all lived happily ever after.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Bowow Leather Ballet Flats

Valentino Garavani Velvet-trimmed Floral-jacquard Wool And Silk-blend Satin Jacket

Valentino Garavani Carry Secrets Embellished Cord-trimmed Velvet Clutch

Valentino Garavani Satin Bow-detailed Ruched Silk-chiffon Strapless Top

Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Raffia Hat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sleeping Beauties. Valentino Resort 2026

July 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

There are days when all you want is to lounge around and feel like Lana Del Rey in her “Honeymoon” era. Dreamy, otherworldly, a bit of a baddie. Alessandro Michele certainly had one of those moments while working on Valentino‘s resort 2026 collection, photographed on literal sleeping beauties. FYI: his vintage-inspired dresses not only look great on red carpets and concert stages, but also in bed.

The new collection sees Michele re-looking the codes straight out of Valentino Garavani’s archive: look 1 offered a ruched Valentino-red minidress, its bodice pleats gathered in frontal cutouts just as Garavani used to do. And the bow, another Garavani favorite, dotted everything from hems to heeled mules like a frivolous punctuation mark. On the decorative side, gobelin-like tapestries were crafted into boxy waistcoats trimmed with feathers and fringed micro shorts. Elsewhere Michele’s urge for embellishment was interrupted by slender and elegant evening gowns in plain soft pastels or classic black. Meanwhile, the menswear took cues from the style of Parisian students who took part in 1968 protests, a theme Michele often gravitates towards in his work. A child of the bourgeoisie, out in the streets, looking for love.

P.s. The Valentino clients should really take a look at Alessandro’s accessories, especially bags: he knows how to turn a heirloom from grandmother’s closet into a modern-day treasure. I’m absolutely obsessed with all the heavily-embroidered, fringed satchels.