Get over it – Alexander Wang isn’t a guy who does serious fashion. I completely understood that last season, when he sent a line of weed-printed dresses and “Strict” logo beanies. Don’t fight it. Wang’s newest collection is youth, and one thing is sure: the future success of spring-summer 2017 is based on the young customers.
Basically, it’s all about sportswear and streetwear (as usual), and that’s highlighted by the fact the event launched a collaboration with Adidas (this had to happen). The main line was a ‘remix’ of the designer’s previous collections – buckled sandals from SS16, pyjama shirts à la SS14 – and it mainly focused on unlikely, messy pairings. A fur bath-robe, neon-purple bra and board shorts. ‘Groundbreaking’. Of course, there was a wide range of lux hoodies, a bunch of sultry, Cali dresses and lots of neon-and-lace combos. The last is a rip off Christopher Kane’s cult SS11, by the way. Concluding – you can be a slave to Alexander’s “fashion”, or not join the club. But then, you won’t be invited to the after show party…
I’m in love with Frank Ocean’s latest drop, ‘Blond‘, and anything else that has something to do with his newest album. From Tyrone Lebon’s video for ‘Nikes‘ to Wolfgang Tillmans’ über-cool visuals, Ocean is on everyone’s lips this month. Also, is he just about to relaunch the trend for motocross gear? Posing in a pink hoodie and a matching racing helmet, he makes me want to wear a motocross t-shirt so badly. But Frank isn’t the only person who revives racing style. Fashion has always been in love with the biker jacket – Vetements‘ over-sized version, and its success is a proof. Also, take under consideration Louis Vuitton‘s biker-girl dresses and Alexander Wang‘s customised helmet from 2012.
Louis Vuitton Resort’17
Alexander Wang SS12
AND, have you heard of Anne-France Dautheville? She’s Chloé‘s autumn-winter 2016 muse, who back in the 70s travelled the world on her motorcycle. Her on-the-go wardrobe, so a maxi floral dress and a leather total-look, was reintepreted in a chic, girlie way by Clare Waight Keller, who is Anne-France’s biggest fan. Although Dautheville doesn’t like to be called a fashion person or anything alike, she’s a true style inspiration. Above all, her look was quite shocking in the past. On the way to Tehran, Anne-France was travelling cross-continent, and a group of men started to drive faster than her. “Ten kilometers later, they stop on the side of the road, and they stop me again. I ask, ‘Is there something you forgot?’ And they say, ‘Well, we were wondering, are you a girl or are you a boy?’” Dautheville tells T Magazine.
In other words – full throttle!
Tights are present in women’s wardrobse on the daily basis – but I distinctly sense that for a few seasons they were absent on the runways, or, at least, were ignored as a potential spotlight-stealer. They were just, somewhere there, hidden under layered skirts and thick teddy bear culottes. But autumn, a season which is ahead of us, is filled with tights, not in a matter of simple necessity – but rather as an accessory which holds the whole outfit together, oozing with flirty elegance and feminine attitude. Prada and Chanel were the first to send “cool” tights down the runway – the former will soon hit the stores with woolen, harlequin rhombus’, while the latter took tips from Carine Roitfeld (the most conscious wearer of tights, knowing they are her chic, chic, chic signature), revaming the traditional mesh into sensual lace. Later on, big and small names took a spin on the “new” trend. From messy look at Alexander Wang, to romantic grunge at No21, you are about choose from #STRICT tagged tights or even much more non-chalant, rhinestone- embroidered stockings. Hosiery is a major thing in Molly Goddard’s autumn-winter 2016 collection, where the young British designer wrapped her models’ legs in unconventional organza for her look-book.
But for these designers, we would still keep tights in a box of “basics” this season. But tights were, and are, the essentials. So, why should we underrate them?
Alexander Wang AW16
No21 tights, from the designer’s Instagram (@dellacqua).
Prada AW16 in Summer issue of Dazed & Confused
Molly Goddard AW16
Prada campaign by Steven Meisel, circa 2000
Meadham Kirchhoff and granny’s crotchet fantasy
Chanel pre-fall 2016
Sultry, defiant punk girls walked down the aisles of St. Barts Church in the heart of New York – it’s visible from the first sight that Alexander Wang pushed hard to provoke. But did he achieve his aim? Not really, even though the view of the Byzantine cupola was breath-taking. But lets not lie – in the Instagram age, it’s hard to shock with both, the clothes, and the venue. And if talking of the clothes, it’s visible that Wang again feels his NYC freedom he had before his three-year Balenciaga tenure – the looks ooze with “I don’t give a f***” attitude from every angle. Mohair cardigans and leg-giving mini-skirts smell with teen spirit, but not with Kurt Cobain – it’s more about dressing up as a “punk” girl of Sky Ferreira origins and putting on your Supreme beanie (I nearly thought the designer collaborated with Supreme on these “Strict”, “Tender” and “Girls” slogans). But what really described the Wang-gang girl were the cannabis-motif embroideries on patent white dresses. This felt both kinda youthful and Tumblr. However, I doubt a lot of 17’s and 18’s can afford this “high fashion” stuff.