Altuzarra
The Sunset. Altuzarra SS16
Not only Rosie Assoulin brought the sun to our lives through her collection. Altuzarra‘s spring-summer 2016 is basically a fantasy of vacations in Tuscany, with Italian wine and beautiful sunsets over the vineyards. Joseph Altuzarra always keeps the femme-fatale attitude (the unbuttoned shirt, flesh exposing skirts), but this time his woman was much more relaxed. Flawless dresses were kept in warm colours of ombre, orange and emerald-green. Intricate embellishments adorned peekaboo pencil skirts and slouchy, cotton blazers felt perfect for breezy evenings. The accessories game for Altuzarra is strong – by expanding his brand, the bags and shoes look even better and better each season – the bags with leather tassels are the instant must-haves. And the heels with espadrille finishes perfectly matched this laid-back collection.
What’s Hot (17.8.15)
No Me Llores Mas
Celine AW15
After Phoebe Philo, the creative director of Celine mused about her inspirations behind AW15 collection, one thing became a statement – latinos are in fashion. And Philo addressed them with a collection that, by her own way, was a very Latin American. “The blood is hotter,” she said. “The approach is more dramatic.” The warm colours, frivolous dresses (they are perfect for dancing) and the new feminine attitude were certainly helped by Brazilian musician Caetano Veloso whose tune was on the soundtrack, and the venue that had the flavor of Argentinian streets, with wood-grain pillars and terra-cotta tiles. And the trend continues. Resort 2016 is on, and three major New York-based labels trigger their collections in a steamy-hot atmosphere: Proenza Schouler‘s designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, present a suntanned presentation of shoulder exposing dresses which appeared in Proenza boys heads when they had their vacations in Cuba; Altuzarra is all about Panama and the country’s traditional beading techniques; Rachel Comey brings on the noise of Kingston, Jamaica, with her vibrant look-book in which the models dance in her clothes. To make you feel the vibe of Latin America in even more effective way, here is the Vogue Italia editorial from 1989 starring Linda Evangelista, shot in Cuba. Caliente!
Celine AW15
Rachel Comey Resort 2016
Altuzarra Resort 2016
Proenza Schouler Resort 2016
Panama & Spring. Altuzarra Resort’16
Joseph Altuzarra has his ups and downs. This time, it is definitely an up. For Resort 2016, the New York-based designer offered his women a heat-wave of bold shirts and beach-worthy skirts. That’s definitely essential to mention what he had put on his lovely dresses – stitches with swags of beads strung in the style of the Kuna tribe in Panama. Each string showed a different order of beads, but when they were arrayed next to each other creating a graphic pattern. “A black-and-white woven leather coat with color-blocked, chevron suede pockets required an equally astounding amount of handwork.” Altuzarra explained that it was the result of a branding project with the French art director Thomas Lenthal in which they stacked all the letters of A-L-T-U-Z-A-R-R-A into squares, creating a new dimension for the logomania trend.
Although it might be to early to tell, but the bags seem to be already the must-haves of Resort 2016 (note: we will see them really not soon in stores). They have that sophisticated luxury touch, combined with leather fringes. And the shoes, appliqued with feathers, were there too to make the entire collection be even more interesting than usual at Altuzarra.
