HC – Fourrure. Fendi AW15

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The last fourrure was presented 90 years ago. Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi, showed the world what is the definite fur splendor. As the name fourrure might suggest, it is a haute couture collection which is utterly focused on… fur. Chinchilla, sable and mink were presented in form of long, floor-weeping coats, flesh explosing jumpsuit and amazingly detailed sweaters – and these were not only interesting because of the fact they were made from a fusion of cashmere and fluff, but because they were embellished with huge flowers, of course shaped from fur. The cape worn by Julia Nobis at the end of the show may have been all about feathers “transforming” into a silver-tipped skirt, which set our minds on a cross-species category search. PETA was set at bay during the fashion show – and all your furry fantasies became real.

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New Fields. Yohji Yamamoto SS15

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The Night Porter was the key to the Yohji Yamamoto SS15. Caps, bras, body uncover, over-sized trousers, helmets- everything felt pretty undiscovered and new to Yamamoto. And at the same time, truly beautiful. With gold shimmer there and there, with some knitting elements and some vintage rug detailing, the collection seriously contrasted with last season’s manga cocoon coats and crazy hair. The dark femininity comes (back) to Yohji Yamamoto’s shows, and we like it.

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Abstract. Delpozo SS15

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Josep Font’s reverie-inducing creations are fashion at its most fantastical. Each of his imaginative collections for Delpozo is a meticulously composed exploration of sculptural shapes and couture-like fabrications. In my personal opinion, Marchesa should take serious notes from Delpozo. Really. For summer, we’ve got these eye-twisting prints, sculptural flowers, beautiful sequins… and that pretty deressing isn’t really all about glitter and Barbie puke. Delpozo is simply the official brand of red carpet dressing in New York although many of these clothes will be alright for a city stroll or a casual lunch (take that gorgeous yellow mini-dress with embellishments). For the second season in a row, I kind of feel something more for Font’s eponymous label.

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