Chic and Cool. Ami SS21

There are seasons when I love Ami. And spring-summer 2021 is definitely a highlight in Alexandre Mattiussi‘s repertoire. “Doing a physical show is a kind of political thing,” the designer said, elaborating that amid the pandemic and crumbling political situations around the world, he thinks “fashion needs to find humility in the situation.” The Ami version of humility might sound quite dramatic: veside the Seine, Mattiussi held a fashion show on a black wood runway complete with a soundtrack by DJ Jennifer Cardini and a cast of famous models like Clement Chabernaud, Amalia Vairelli, Audrey Marnay and Georgina Grenville. To counter the evening affair, Matiussi sent out clothing with a relaxed spirit. He described his co-ed, spring-summer 2021 men’s and women’s collections as “sophisticated but not pretentious.” The slim plaid maxiskirts and black wool LBDs proved the point for women, the louche seafoam and chocolate suits and baggy shorts did it for men. A series of mesh tanks, styled throughout with vacation-y beaded necklaces, emphasized the chill vibes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Bourgeoisie. Ami AW19

Haven’t written about Alexandre Mattiussi‘s Ami for a while. But when I saw the brand’s womenswear, now getting bigger and better than ever, I kind of fell in love with this brand again. The Ami man and woman walk together, shoulder-to-shoulder, very, very well. Mattiussi called the collection “an homage to the bourgeoisie” and said he imagined his men and women as the sons and daughters of old Parisian money who were going for tea with their grandmothers, but planned big nights ahead. The many shades of beige, from coffee noisette to ecru, looked quintessentially Parisian, and the pink-ish and green-ish colour drops well added up to the palette. The boys wore shearling jackets and hoodies with Eiffel tower prints, while the girls had masculine coats, blazers and floor-sweeping shirt-dresses on. CHIC.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Into the Blue. AMI AW16

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Alexandre Mattiussi, the designer behind a succesful menswear label, AMI, wanted to portray a Parisian guy (and girl, wearing identical denim borrowed from her French boyfriend) who lives a night-life. It’s not right to look at a collection from its end – however the sequin embellished pair of sweatpants and the glittering coat will surely make it to a major party in the heart of Paris. Just like the fleecy, pastel blue knits, which are guaranteed to look great during the fête, and the next day in bed, while having a morning hangover. Oh, and I nearly forgot to mention THIS suede, shearling jacket. Many designers played with one this season, but AMI makes it look simply chic, when worn over grey, woolen pants and a flannel shirt.

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Men’s: Too Cool For School. AMI SS15

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For spring, AMI took us all back to school. With models wearing black Oxfords, white sweatpants, chcked / stripey shirts or denim vests, it really smelled with coolness. The designer, Alexandre Mattiussi, then proceeded to send out a youthquake driven collection that hit on all the cliché clicks that exist at any given high school, anywhere in the world. But this being France and Mattiussi being a Frenchman, his interpretation of those stereotypes were decidedly cooler then most.

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Men’s: AMI Store 22 Rue De Grenelle

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Alexandre Mattiussi, the successfull designer of male fashion label, AMI, has just opened his second boutque on 22 Rue de Grenelle in Paris. Known for producing effortless, cool clothes for men, AMI has it’s status of MUST HAVE in Paris. Whenever you wear one of their camo trousers or wool sweaters, you always feel best. So no wonder why their recent store is magic- old tiles, the front desk looks like a bar and the old painting that hang on the walls create a atmosphere of typical, Parisian caffee! Personally, I would love to try out every single piece in that store and spend some time in it… more on http://amiparis.fr

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Men’s: Trend Report AW14

 

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Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

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They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

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Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

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Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

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Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

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This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?

Men’s: Paris Chic. AMI AW14

Slide5AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.Slide2Slide3Slide4Slide1-kopia 3

Berlin: The Corner for Men

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Just one block further from THECORNERBERLIN for women, there is the one with menswear. And it’s just a fashion paradise! Givenchy, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga are here, with the coolest pieces. But my real love was the Balenciaga sweatshirt with the Faraon mask on it… So epic! There were also the amazing Valentino sneakers with Camo print and also lots of Acne Studios jeans! The design of the store is simple, with the biggest German design classics of chairs like Mies Van Der Roch. Lovely!

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