Support Brick-And-Mortar!

Two stores I love in Berlin: Andreas Murkudis and Sal Bazaar. Especially now, brick-and-mortar shops are having a hard time (I know it from a first-hand experience) and we should support the ones with authentic soul, a unique selection and a one-of-a-kind aura. Andreas Murkudis is my long-time go-to place (from Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto to the amazing space and beautiful art initiatives), while Sal Bazaar feels like the antidote to traditional fashion retail. This place is like an art gallery, really. Here you will find Dumitrascu, the place’s home-made label, as well as hand-picked, precious vintage and  ceramics made by local artisans. Everything is just so aligned with the owner’s taste. I know on-line is thriving and all, but REAL shops are the best. So, here’s a reminder: support them however you can!

Andreas Murkudis / Potsdammerstraße 81E

Sal Bazaar / Mulackstraße 34

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Post-Confinement Berlin

Yesterday I went to my dear Berlin for the first time since the pandemy started in March, and I must say that the post-confinement crisis is real here. It was sad to see that some of my favourite restaurants and shops have completely closed down, and in general the city is quite sleepy. Hopefully good times will come back as soon as possible… Here’s a recap of my all-time Berlin places, as well as some new discoveries. Just remember to take your face ask. If you’re planning to visit the German capital anytime soon, make sure to look at my address book here for more great spots!

König Galerie

This gallery was founded by Johann König in 2002, and currently represents 40 international emerging and established artists, mostly belonging to a younger generation. The program’s focus is on interdisciplinary, concept-oriented and space-based approaches in a variety of media including sculpture, video, sound, painting, printmaking, photography and performance. In May 2015, König Galerie took up St. Agnes, a monumental former church built in the 1960s in the Brutalist style, where museum-like exhibitions take place in two different spaces, the former chapel and nave. Until the 26th of June, “Messe in St. Agnes” exhibition is happening here: over 100 works by artists such as Elmgreen & Dragset, Alicja Kwade, Andy Warhol, Juergen Teller, Isa Genzken,  Eliza Douglas, Alex Katz and Katharina Grosse are exhibited and sold at the gallery.

Alexandrinestraße 118–121
Andreas Murkudis
Nothing compares to brick-and-mortar, especially after living the confinement life for the last few months. Andreas Murkudis is probably my favourite store in the world, and I hope places like this will survive the hard times. Get your Dries Van Noten, Cecilie Bahnsen, The Row, Loewe and Issey Miyake right here, just like niche perfume labels and gorgeous porcelain.
Potsdammerstraße 81E
Tschoban Foundation

What is still drawn today? Which architects continue to master the art of hand drawing? What place has the skilled use of pen and ink in an age of computer aided design? In the 21st century, virtually no architect seeks to persuade clients of their capacities as a designer by means of sketches or perspective views. In architectural education today, there is also less emphasis on learning the craft of drawing although the ability to convey ideas through drawing by hand remains essential in developing form and proportion. It is at this point that the Tchoban Foundation intervenes. Established in 2009 by Sergei Tchoban, himself a passionate draftsman and collector of historic architectural drawings, its extensive collection serves as a source for research on the history and nature of architectural drawing. An extensive library on the subject is accessible to experts and visitors. The overall aim of the foundation, however, is to present the imaginative and emotionally-charged world of architectural drawing to a broad public through regular exhibitions.

Christinenstraße 18a

MDC Cosmetic

MDC Cosmetic offers a range of exclusive, international cosmetics, supplies and accessories for a home spa and nutritional supplements. From Santa Maria Novella 1612 perfumes and Susanne Kaufmann bath salts to Astier de Villatte candles and Rahua cosmetics, this adorable, cozy space got you covered with all the ‘treat yourself’ kind of products. Cosmetic advice and treatments are available on request.

Knaackstraße 26

The Store x Soho House Berlin

A classic. From Bottega Veneta and vintage Irving Penn books to Balenciaga and avocado toast, this place has it all.

Torstraße 1

And for the end… flowers! I love walking around Berlin, because it’s so full of nature, wherever you go.

Rick Owens Furniture at Andreas Murkudis

Although it’s been a while ago, Andreas Murkudis hosted a temporary pop-up store feauturing Rick Owens and Michele Lamy‘s furniture line. I wanted to see those designs for such a long time, and it was worth the wait. There’s something truly incredible in their raw beauty. When Lamy and Owens first started out making furniture, it was purpose-built; their marital bed was the first thing that they created, long before they thought that their work might evolve into the sort of thing to be exhibited at global art galleries, because “we don’t buy; we do,” as Michele told Another Magazine back in 2017. “We have always been this way, always building spaces; small or big. Rick with his studio, me with Les Deux Cafés…” Formed from basalt and petrified wood, crystal and oxbone and alabaster, such objects might easily appear sterile, but they are instead imbued with resounding warmth. “Part of the romance invested in the furniture is the look on the faces of the guys who work on it when she sweeps into their studios in the jewellery, furs and smoke – her love for them and their love for her is a big part of every piece,” writes Owens in their book dedicated to their furniture. Most beautiful things are made with love.

Photos by Edward Kanarecki and Owenscorp.

Spring in Berlin

Me doing a ‘spring cowboy-slash-mushroom look’, starring a Jil Sander hat…

Spring in Berlin is one of the best moments to visit this city – the greenery starts to pop all over the streets, people drink wine in front of the restaurants and the light, comfy ‘Berliner’ style in in full bloom as well. Planning a weekend trip to this city soon? Here are some of the addresses you will definitely love!

Everything about Panama makes it one of the hottest restaurants of the moment, or even… a cult place. Hidden on Potsdamer Straße (a stone throw from Andreas Murkudis), the two-story space has been designed by Karoline Butzert and Nora Witzigmann. It breathes with contemporary art, and the artistic contributions, like Julius von Bismarck’s photographs or bone-shaped neon by Kerim Seiler, lets you feel like in an art gallery. The idea behind Panama’s menu is to share your food with others. That’s why it’s recommended to order about 5 different dishes per person, to discover the restaurant’s unique cuisine. From tacos with red cabbage to salmon trout ceviche, Panama offers a wide range of varying tastes and ingredient compositions. Don’t forget to try ‘Panama’ empanadas with sesame ponzu and their cardamon churros for the desert!

Potsdamer Straße 91

Berliners buy in two places: either at COS or at Acne Studios. And while the selection at COS is crazy good (I can approve after my last, spring-summer shopping frenzy…), Acne Studios seems to be a worship place here. The brand’s huge space on Potsdammer Straße is as good as the new season’s clothes. Very, very lovely people work here, too!

Potsdamer Straße 87

I wrote about Andreas Murkudis countless of times, so I thing there’s no need to introduce this God of all concept stores (ok, Colette was first, but Andreas Murkudis stole my heart forever). Still, I’m reminding it here! Also, how good is the Dries Van Noten x Verner Panton bag?

Potsdammer Sraße 81

Do You Read Me?! is the best press and books supply in town. About 10 years ago, this space fully dedicated to printed matter opened in Mitte. A very well curated assortment of magazines and newspapers. Fashion, photography and art, architecture, interior and design, illustration, graphic design and typography, cultural matters and society. All under one roof!

Auguststraße 28

Jewelry designer Sabrina Dehoff launched Dehoff Studio in Mitte. It’s an evolving fashion concept starting with a line of dresses that will be showcased next to the Dehoff’s jewelry brand. The space itself is a place for artists and other experts in their field to cooperate with her and to use Dehoff Studio as an open space which acts as an artisanal lab bringing back the hand-made craft and care that consumers are craving.

Auguststraße 26A

For gorgeous flowers vist Kians Garden. Their boutique/studio is a true floral paradise you won’t want to leave!

130 Kantstraße

Wochenmarkt Kollwitzplatz takes place every Saturday. It’s a market that involves local farmers and artisans, but not only. You will find a stall with home-made raviolis stuffed with asparagus and ricotta; a guy who sells colourful, fleecy cashmere blankets; girls with brilliantly looking flower bouquets… all that in the heart of booming Prenzlauer Berg district.

Wörther Straße

MDC Cosmetic offers a range of exclusive, international cosmetics, supplies and accessories for a home spa and nutritional supplements. From Santa Maria Novella 1612 perfumes and Susanne Kaufmann bath salts to Astier de Villatte candles and Rahua cosmetics, this adorable, cozy space got you covered with all the ‘treat yourself’ kind of products. Cosmetic advice and treatments are available on request.

Knaackstraße 26

If you’re lucky to book a place at Sasaya, it’s for sure – you will eat the best Japanese cuisine in entire Berlin. Sasaya offers seasonal dishes just as classical sushi rolls, soups and their signatures (like the delightful gyoza sticks). The prices are surprisingly affordable, while the quality’s top knotch.

Lychener Straße 50

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Berlin, When It’s Cold

Berlin, when it’s cold? I say: yes. The city is a perfect destination for weekend visiting in any season. So, even when it’s winter and the temperature drops below zero, you’re more than welcome to visit the Turkish market in Kreuzberg, discover new coffee spots (or rather, new to you, but well known for the locals) or simply, go to a museum. Scroll on!

AnneliesGörlitzer Str. 68

The quintessence of a Berliner brunch spot – raw, yet cozy interior, delicious pastries, perfect lighting.

Turkish MarketMaybachufer

Fresh pomegranates, mangos, coriander and lemons in February? Those market stalls got you covered.

Berggruen MuseumSchloßstraße 1

The Berggruen Museum is a collection of modern art classics, which the collector and dealer Heinz Berggruen, in a “gesture of reconciliation”, gave to his native city. The most notable artists on display include Pablo Picasso (some of the rarest works out there), Alberto Giacometti, Georges Braque, Paul Klee and Henri Matisse. A true, visual feast.

Rosa WolfEberswalder Str. 32

Rosa Wolf is a shop filled with independent magazines, carefully selected from all over the world. Whether you’re looking for reading material about fashion, art, culture, travel, architecture or design, you will find it at their place in Prenzlauer Berg.

The Store x Soho House Berlin / Torstraße 1

An ever-changing space created to inspire, create, work and enjoy – and most of all, to shake-up the stereotype of how a fashion retail place should look like. Located in the Soho Haus Berlin hotel, The Store makes you feel like at home, with its beautifully curated furniture (from chic Pierre Jeanneret seats to Mathieu Matégot heart shaped-patio set) and a connoisseur-level book selection, coming straight from London’s cult Idea Books. Moreover, The Store is Berlin‘s fashion destination, with its heaving hangers of Vetements, The Row, Aries, Calvin Klein, Wales Bonner and others.

The Potsdammer Straße ‘trio’:

Andreas Murkudis / Potsdammer Straße 81

Fiona Bennett / Potsdammer Straße 81-83

Acne Studios / Potsdammer Straße 87

SasayaLychener Str. 50

Sasaya is the best Japanese restaurant in Berlin. It’s just so pure in taste, and so Japanese in everything, from the simple interior to the way the asparagus tempura is served on ceramics plates (which are sold together with delightful pottery and rare sake next to the restaurant space). Sasaya doesn’t only serve sushi – which is perfect – but as well other traditional dishes and tastes like the tsukemono (pickled vegetables), the takana (fried vegetables), dashi broth or the kukiwakame (seaweed). The gyoza stick is a great addition to your portion of maki and nigiri, while green tea cake with matcha macchiato is an ideal desert (at least for me!).

Superbazaro / Mulackstraße 1

Italian (and not only) gourmet food and wines with selected, chic kitchenware. By Mitte’s favourite Mädchenitalianer restaurant nearby, which serves some delightful, home-made Italian cusine.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Gallery Weekend Kick-Off

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Made some new friends. Thanks MCM for those pandas!

Even though I couldn’t stay for the entire Gallery Weekend in Berlin (which ends tomorrow), I managed to come for its very kick-off, which happenned at Andreas Murkudis. I’ve written about this store here and there, so I think there’s no need to explain once again why this place is one of the most incredible concept stores in the world. For the occasion, Andreas Murkudis organised an event called Seoul10Soul, which celebrates the leading designers from Seoul. From Blindness and Bourie to Ych and Munn, the magnificent bamboo rack construction placed in the front of the store presented the intricacy and innovative character of Korean brands. Along Céline trench coats and Dries Van Noten dresses, you can also view Murkudis’ personal collection of rare photography books from well-established artists including Larry Sultan, Wolfgang Tillmans or Walker Evans. Plus, every Berliner knows that a party at Andreas Murkudis is a party to be at. And, there’s a large probability that you will meet your Berlin-based Instagram friends, in real life. Nice to meet you, @iampatrickmason!

During Gallery Weekend, nearly every place you visit booms with art. Odeeh, which is just across Andreas Murkudis, had a small party celebrating a Berlin-based artist, Leonhard Hurzlmeier. In the nearby Blain|Southern gallery, which is located in a former warehouse, a private view of Frank Thiel’s Quinceañeras (that examines the tradition of the often lavish coming-of-age celebrations around a young woman’s fifteenth birthday in Cuba) and Liliane Tomasko’s A Dream Of  (paintings that expressively describe the emotions triggered by the artist’s dreams) took place as well. But note: Gallery Weekend spreads across entire Berlin, and I’ve had a chance to see just a bit of it this year. Hope that my next April will be much less hectic and I will be there for all of it!

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

July in Berlin

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What’s better than spending a rainy July day on visiting your favourite Berlin spots? Going for the sale-season triathlon? Discovering new designers? Induldging yo’self in tuna tataki? I think nothing can beat those…

Few days ago, The Store and Berlin-based label Ottolinger launched an exclusive collection of tie-dyed t-shirts and sweatshirts in all tones of rusty-brown, illustrated by the brand’s friend and collaborator @ruffiodoom (Instagram nickname). Also, the paint-covered accessories caught my eye – choose between the customized Nike AF1 sneakers and the tiny-miney hand-bags with souvenir charms (you know, the tourist ones, like the ‘I love Italy’ trash) attached. One-off DIY feeling of Ottolinger is Christa Bösch’s and Cosima Gadient’s signature style, perfectly fitting Berlin’s current creative energy.

Torstraße 1 (enter through Soho House Hotel). More about The Store here.

Fiona Bennett‘s store is both a beautifully lit display of the brand’s headwear and an atelier filled with local petites mains of millinery. We were all considering one of those summer-y straw Panama hats, the house’s new addition…

Potsdamer Straße 81-83

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi is a brand new spot which explores Japanese cuisine in a modern, but quite relaxed way. From delightful sushi with wagyu and a wide selection of sashimi to bowls of edaname and signature ‘Emotion’ set, the place is the right choice for a quick-lunch. The industrial interior à la former warehouse with spacious interior makes it super appealing.

Potsdamer Straße 85

Andreas Murkudis is a must-go whenever I visit the city. This time, my favourite  concept store invites you to experience the Birkenstock Box. The travelling ‘retail experiment’ in Murkudis’ courtyard will stay there till 22nd of July. It offers slightly revamped Birkenstock sandals, created exclusively for Andreas Murkudis  If you’re not really into cult orthopedic sandals, and a massive Céline sale doesn’t excite you (ok, that’s creepy), then you will surely fall in love with the massive installation by Kostas Murkudis – a line of satin dresses hanging down the ceiling, forming a rainbow colour palette. Looks very, very impressive.

Potsdamer Straße 81e

See you in Berlin!

October in Berlin

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How I love Berlin. Walking the streets of Mitte. Indulging myself in Vetements and Dries Van Noten. Eating in new spots (stay in tune – posts about Berlin’s restaurants are on their way – some will be here, and some on ustamagazyn.pl!) and experiencing street art. If you’re planning to visit the German capital this October, no second thought is needed – the city looks even more beautiful under the foliage of autumn leaves. So, what are you waiting for?

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Off to A.P.C. of course!

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Vivienne Westwood boutique.

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MITTE DISTRICT – In fact, you don’t need a specific destination, when in Mitte. Start walking from the surrounded by parks Weinbergsweg street, and end your trip on Alte Schönhauser to immerse yourself at local boutiques and patisseries. I’m quite sure you won’t stop taking pictures of everything you see throughout your Mitte stroll.

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Comme Des Garçons AW16 exhibition.

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Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia.

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Vetements.

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The Row.

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THE STORE –  An ever-changing space created to inspire, create, work and enjoy – and most of all, to shake-up the stereotype of how a fashion retail place should look like. Located in the über-cool Soho Haus Berlin hotel, The Store makes you feel like at home, with its beautifully curated furniture (from chic Pierre Jeanneret seats to Mathieu Matégot heart shaped-patio set) and a connoisseur-level book selection, coming straight from London’s cult Idea Books. Moreover, The Store is Berlin‘s hottest fashion destination right now, with heaving hangers of Vetements, The Row and Loewe. The shelf with classic vinyls and a lovely corner with freshly-cut flowers is at the entrance, while the bar, which serves organic salads and other seasonal goods, will keep you here for a longer time… so just sit on one of the velvet armchairs, take a sip of your coffee and try on these Vetements boots with a cigarette-lighter heel!

Torstraße 1

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Size matters. Sofa by Kvadrat X Raf Simons.

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Céline!

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Oh, Byredo. Favourite scents.

ANDREAS MURKUDIS – When looking for Andreas Murkudis’ boutique in Potsdammer Straße, one might wonder if this is the right address. Especially after 6 PM, when the local casinos become crowded, the lines for currywurst become longer and certain ladies in boots start taking action. But the GPS tells me where to turn and suddenly in the middle of a gloomy courtyard emerges the kingdom of Berlin fashion. Andreas – the owner of the place – has a many-years’ experience in the fashion industry and he is well aware what he likes. In his boutique we will find his favourite brands and the brands he is friends with. He doesn’t follow the trends. He selects exceptional clothes and accessories from Dries Van Noten, Céline or Maison Margiela, which are almost impossible to get in other shops. Apart from the fashion, the versatile offer of his boutique includes porcelain works of art from the Nymphenburg manufacture, Mykita glasses and unique furniture by German designers. But this is just a fraction of the Murkudis’ secrets. If you are still unsure about visiting the place – few months ago a cosmic boutique of Acne Studios opened nearby. This company then speaks for itself. (Initially posted by me here)

Potsdammer Straße 81E

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Dries Van Noten in KaDeWe (left) / Curvy architecture of Berlin.

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My view from the hotel room. Thank you Marcell Von Berlin for hosting!

All photos by Edward Kanarecki