Summer. Missoni SS21

Missoni‘s spring-summer 2021 look-book warms me mentally on this cold, rainy November day. “Summer, come back”, it seems to say. While other designers switch to loungewear with lockdown on their minds, for Angela Missoni it comes much more natural. “For us, comfort has always been at the foundation of our style,” she told Vogue via Zoom. “Knitwear is indeed the most malleable, versatile medium to convey a feel of ease. So there’s nothing new for us – we haven’t changed our perspective.” Discussing her new collection, she elaborated, “Since my parents established our house in the ’50s, our collections have never been elaborate or over-designed. Nevertheless, this season I went for even more simplicity and clarity. It came as a spontaneous feel. We are designers and not sociologists; our creativity is what drives us. Although these times call for a heightened sense of responsibility and more engagement on social issues, women – myself included – still desire to be feminine and to express a certain sensuality, even when confined at home.” The lineup pivoted around an elongated and slightly ’90s silhouette, popularised by Jacquemus in the last few collections – think tube tops or midriff-baring mini cardigans; slender body-hugging midi-skirts with sexy thigh-high slits; and straight-cut thin-strapped slip dresses baring the back. Missoni’s typical 3D textures were smoothed and simplified, with plays of horizontal intarsias contrasting the verticality of the lines, a touch of Lurex and fishnet-knitted sequins adding luminosity and sparkle. Missoni paired every outfit with T-strap stilettos, casually wrapped around the ankle with printed foulards. “I’ve found myself looking at high heels in my wardrobe with a feel of longing,” she said. “I can’t wait to wear them again when all this will hopefully be over.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Soft Geometry. Missoni AW20

The spotlight of the last days of Milan fashion week was stolen by the abrupt spread of corona virus in multiple of Italian regions near the city. Still, one of those closing shows just can’t be ignored: I’m speaking of the beautiful Missoni line-up. The organizing principle was geometry. Press notes made reference to the 1884 book Flatland: A Romance of Many Dimensions, in which its author, Edwin A. Abbott, made squares sexy. Angela Missoni‘s take on geometric patterns of all kinds were collaged on every manner of knit, from the most generous of belted cardigans to body-clinging ribbed tops and tube skirts. The palette was dark and moody and shot through with metallic Lurex, and as ever the patchworking of different motifs was a highlight. The navy and gold intarsia coat with slouched-on ’80s proportions is the must-have, just as all the gorgeous blazers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Knit Wonderland. Missoni AW19

unnamed-1

Angela Missoni’s autumn-winter 2019 collection for her family brand was all about knitwear – which isn’t really a surprise, since we’re talking about Missoni, the ultimate knit kingdom. Cozy ponchos, V-neck dresses worn over turtlenecks, lurex-like pants in ocean blue, an ethnic robe coat worn with an orange hoodie… everything that makes winter dressing sound not that bad. Who wouldn’t want to layer up in these soft, fleecy garments? I also really loved the striped tights styled with matching outerwear. Bella Hadid’s look was just it.

unnamed-6unnamed-3unnamed-5unnamed-7unnamed-4

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

65 Years. Missoni SS19

missoni

Missoni‘s spring-summer 2019 collection happened to celebrate 65 years of the brand. That’s what you call an anniversary! The show was held outdoors and Michael Nyman played a piano recital just a few steps from the runway. Angela Missoni‘s collection was typically… Missoni: light knits, patchwork dresses and the signature zigzag pattern were all over the line-up. The colour palette was earthy and calm. Shortly speaking, the collection was full of warmth and felt properly grounded. Just like the brand’s reputation that hasn’t changed at all, throughout all those years. Missoni is relevant. Missoni is suited for life (whether it’s a very Italian garden party you’re invited to, a long and tedious travel or a romantic walk down the sea-side). And, what’s most surprising in today’s fashion industry, it’s independent. That’s how you pass the test of time.

Slajd08Slajd09Slajd10Slajd13Slajd11Slajd14Slajd12Slajd15

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sweet Lifestyle. Missoni Resort 2019

missoni

Angela Missoni can make her Missoni collection as sweet as the Spicchi de Arance e Pompelmo from the newly published The Missoni Family Cookbook. By that, I mean the softness of knits and a spectrum of pastel colours that appeared in the line-up. Missoni is more than fashion; it’s a lifestyle that’s about love, family, friendship, celebration – all somewhere situated in a very Italian villa. Light, plissé dresses in knitted Lurex and palazzo pants (note that delicate transparency) suggested fresh airiness, while the abstract floral prints and sea-shell jewellery brought on even more charm. Yet still, the collection feels dynamic, with that leading, signature “Put Together Look”, where different patterns, colours and textures are gracefully matched up. Plus, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick’s photography and Vanessa Reid’s styling fit contemporary Missoni’s image very, very well.

Slajd1-kopiaSlajd2-kopiaSlajd3-kopiaSlajd4Slajd6Slajd5

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.