Although I adore Dries Van Noten, this new collection feels tired. So many themes at one time, so incoherent. Feathers, satin, brocade, flower, brrr. A Belle Epoque mash with all Van Noten archive collections. Of course, there were some good looks – the dandy girl, the military coats – but it all looked too crap in one collection. Even these velvet shoes which are art didn’t win me over. But because it’s Dries Van Noten, I won’t cross-out this collection off my list.
Dries Van Noten is man, that knows what women want, and that’s not so common nowadays. His collections are always so clear, so feminine and beautiful… for SS11, for example, we had a blast of hand-painted florals; for AW12, Dries brought oriental mood to his chic silhouettes; for SS15, he made the models (and clothes) calm down and sit down on a hand-made carpet from Buenos Aires. Known for great styling skills, he was the first to make a woolen sweater, striped shirt and feather-appliqued midi skirt look so good. Forgetting about being shiny on the New Year eve- maybe one of those outfits will inspire you?
Born and raised in Antwerp, Jan-Jan Van Essche menswear brand blends ethnic tradition with western characteristics- knitted ponchos, wool hats and loose attitude. Together with his partner Piëtro Celestina, whom Jan-Jan met during his fashion studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he runs Atelier Solarshop just a few blocks away from their loft where they live and work.The former solarshop carries Jan-Jan’s pieces and vintage treasures that reflect his style and mood. In Jan-Jan’s latest collection, entitled INITE, he shows his signatures- lazy blazers, pants and non-chalantly worn scarves. Also, we’ve got a quiet, peaceful colour palette perfect for every season. But what strikes you first in his new look-book, are the gold-polished socks which give the all of the outfits a edgy touch. This Antwerp-based guy keeps it close to his own, personal aesthetic and I love it (by the way, his models seem to be perfect for the overall atmosphere of the collection). More on ateliersolarshop.be and janjanvanessche.com
Funagata bag by Kazumi Takigawa
Walter Bosse hedgegog
Jan-Jan Van Essche hat
Hui-Hui silk scarf
Nickel bronze cutlery
December 7: A.F. Vandevorst, the eponymous label of a couple, had a great 2014- a new flagship store in Antwerp with an atelier on the second floor. Also, their SS15 collection was a beautiful fuse of militarian grunge and couture finishings. In other words, the Antwerpian label is in full-bloom this year!
Shadows fell on the girl who had recorded Horses. At a time of deep loneliness she received a package from Antwerp—an exquisite white box tied with black ribbon—like a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. She set it on her worktable by the window, laid the ribbons aside, and raised the lid. There, beneath layers of immaculate tissue, were three white shirts. She unfolded and spread them in the light, examining every stitch. I understood that I was not alone. When at long last I stepped back upon the stage, the girl of Flanders brushed the dust from my shoulder, adjusted my collar, and laced my boots.
Patti Smith on Ann Demeulemeester.
Design & Culture by Ed 