Who would have thought that Berlin is suddenly becoming fashion’s favourite city? After Gucci presented its spring-summer 2016 campaign photographed by Glen Luchford (club WCs, peacocks and rooftops – see it here), the creative director of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci, took the edgy streets of Kreuzberg by storm. The pre-fall 2016 collection is not only great because of the location, which I deeply adore – Riccardo comes back to his roots, which are all about fashion, and not the celebrity circus. Masculine pyjama layered with a lace skirt; sharp apparel channelled by Irina Shayk; “cheesy”, pink ankle-boots styled with romantic shoulder-exposing tops. Although there are no literal references of the city, the collection is very close to Berlin’s youthful attitude – the girls in here twist vintage looking suits with rock’n’roll biker jackets and simple, yet soigné spaghetti-strap tops. In other words, Berlin’s urban chic is getting a refined revamp by a French maison. Good try, Riccardo. I’m into it.
They were the ones who discreetly made frayed and cut denim cool again; they made 90’s vibe strong and most noticeable this year. Also, the Portuguese couple of Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida won the LVMH Prize Award this year for their major impact in new-gen fashion. Marques Almeida‘s designer duo just couldn’t be not listed in 2015’s favourites!
AW15 – For ther winter collection, the label shows their signature denim, but also brings a lot of new ideas – knitted dresses, jacquard knot-tops, lilac furs and polished leather accessories. Models marched to the sounds of Bjork’s 1995 “Army of Me”, haveing their hair done in undone, grungy way. The attitude reminded me of Corinne Day’s photography from the 90’s, as “it was a lot about those shoots where you would have these really expensive garments with a wrecked sofa”. Hell yeah.
Resort’16 – After winning the LVMH Prize, Marques Almeida quickly updated their brand schedule, by introducing a new season to it – resort. And for their first resort collection, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida went to Brazil with their muse, Sofia. The effect? A collection filled with affordable clothes, which have a very specific M’A signature attached to them. Special denim tops with ruffles; grungy silhouettes; bold colours. And lovely dresses which were styled in unusually elegant way. Loose-weave light knits were slashed and knotted just like their tattered T-shirts, which came reinvented here as beachwear. Digital jungle-print silks and florals were a clash of femininity and the typical rawness Marques Almeida has in its codes. It is worth to mention, that going to Brazil was worth it – the clothes looked laid-back and appealingly slouchy.
SS16 – Marques Almeida’s recent London outing for spring-summer 2016 seemed to be not only the most daring, but also commerce-wise. The sheer, ruffled dresses and skirts looked flowing and truly romantic. The collection had a fresh, lady-like tendency and a dose of edgy, over-sized silhouettes. And the linen top with feather-appliqued shoulder stole the spotlight of the last London Fashion Week day. Simultaneously, their best-selling denim trousers and tops were just slightly changed, in order to keep the Marques Almeida best-seller fresh. If you ask me, this collection showed that Marques Almeida is not plainly about apparel, but also about avant-garde fashion.
Marques Almeida recent London outing for spring-summer 2016 seemed to be not only the most daring, but also smartly commerce-wise. The sheer, ruffled dresses and skirts looked flowing and truly romantic. The collection had a fresh, lady-like tendency and a dose of edgy, over-sized silhouettes. And the linen top with feather-appliqued shoulder stole the spotlight of the last London Fashion Week day. Simultaneously, their best-selling denim trousers and tops were just slightly changed, in order to keep the Marques Almeida signature strong. If you ask me, this collection showed that Marques Almeida is not plainly about apparel, but also about avant-garde fashion.
Faustine Steinmetz is my current obsession from London’s Fashion Week. Her unusual way of making couture out of apparel is unbelievable! Micro-pleated denim is one of the new fabric developments in her repertoire and it gave some spectacular dimension to the SS16 jackets. Also, Faustine’s couture-like weaving talent was presented in form of a striped polo shirt that took a week to make. A classic gray sweatshirt, surprisingly, unraveled into a stream of floor-grazing fringing. Basic, white tops were alive thanks to refreshing greens and vials. In the times, when all our t-shirts and jeans are made on massive scale, Faustine Steinmetz’s unique vision for hand-made apparel seems to be unreal. But her growing fan base will support the idea.
Knitwear is not really the part of wardrobe you are thinking about for summer. But Rag & Bone makes it, surprisingly, highly desirable. Flesh-exposing tweed skirts in neon yellow, a all-seasons red jumper with a leather patch are not only super off-duty, but needed now, in autumn! However, the designers behing New York’s favourite apparel brand gave us slip dresses, ribbon sandals and gorgeous satin varsity jackets. Notice the badass, white sneakers – they looked extremely chill with those sexy, shoulder-showing maxi dresses. Rag & Bone strongly keeps it true to its style – a funky, Meatpacking Dristrict girl.