Art. Thom Browne AW18

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Madonna’s ‘Vogue’ on the soundtrack. Painting models in the background. Sculpted skirts that looked like, yes, Venus of Willendorf. Thom Browne wanted to convey the idea of feminine artistry in his surreal, autumn-winter 2018 collection. Shortly, it’s “Vigée Le Brun painting a vision of what she wanted to be in the 21st century.” The 18th-century female artist, who was famous for being Marie Antoinette’s official portraitist, was an exception in the male dominated profession. No wonder why she’s the inspiration behind the collection. Browne never stops to surprise with his love for craftsmanship – the grey dress with ’embroidered’ nipples and ‘knitted’ pubic hair is a highlight, just like the delightful roses on capes and coats. A show to remember.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fine and Raw. Eckhaus Latta AW18

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I love Eckhaus Latta. While other designers leave New York for Paris, it’s comforting to see that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta choose the Big Apple for their fashion shows. Or rather, Brooklyn. For seasons, Eckhaus Latta is a champion in model casting diversity (from plus-size girls to elderly ladies), but lately, it also impresses with the fabric choice. From knit skirts spun from Italian yarn to slinky rayon Jersey evening wear, there’s a cool sense of raw meets fine in every single piece. The lilac mini-dress is clingy, but not vulgar; masculine blazers make a statement, even though they aren’t overly sharp in silhouette. Mike and Zoe respect the body, in their own, arty way. But how do they get the idea what a woman (or man) wants? In their L.A. store, “there’s only a curtain that separates our studio from our store,” explained Latta. “We can hear when our customers are trying on jeans, when men are trying on women’s clothes, and vice versa.” There is no better feedback, than the one coming from a client. Take notes, other designers.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Frida Kahlo in Poznan

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There’s no need to introduce Frida Kahlo. The Mexican artist is one of the most important artists of the 20th century and up to now, her paintings spark controversy and debates. Her world, which was filled with both passion and pain, was reflected in her portraits, illustrations and collages. Whether affected by her suffer (caused by countless illnesses) or being under the impulse of love, each work by Kahlo paralyses the viewer with its elusive, reality-subverting power.

You can’t imagine how happy and proud I was when I discovered last year that an exhibition devoted to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera (her husband, with whom she shared a very, very intense relationship)  is arriving to Poznań, my hometown. The exhibition, Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera. Polish Context also considers a quite unknown, yet close relation between the couple and Polish -born artists (photographer Bernice Kolko and painter Fanny Rebel). There’s a section of Nickolas Muray’s incredible photographs of Frida during her trip to New York; an entire display dedicated to the artist’s personal diary. If you’re planning a trip to Poznań, make sure to see mark the exhibition as a MUST – it would be a shame to miss this one-of-a-kind event.

CK Zamek in Poznań / 28.09.2017 – 21.01.2018

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Photos by Edward Kanarecki

Dreams. Thom Browne SS18

Thom Browne‘s debut womenswear show in Paris suggests one thing: sometimes, one collection is better than dozens of other designer line-ups. With his unique, artistic sensitivity for couture-ish ready-to-wear, Browne’s collections are not just about fancy dresses – they are entire spectacles, modern-day fairy-tales. For spring-summer 2018, the New York-based designer had “two girls dreaming of unicorns and mermaids, and all the things that little girls dream of” as initial point of departure. Indeed, there was an all-white unicorn on the runway, ‘worn’ by two models. A mermaid has also appeared, wearing a plaid coat and intricately embellished gown. But there were also fairies wearing feather-trimmed jackets, mischievous captain ladies, haunted widows and a Goddess of sun. There was something of a magical and mystical narration in the collection. It’s rare to have a walking skeleton (no, not printed, but delightfully embellished) in your fashion show. Or see a dress with an attached, silk octopus sculpture on the back, with its tentacles covering the model’s body. Another look was spun from spongy clouds of tulle, that trailed behind the model like sea-foam, as she walked down the runway.

I see no obstacles to call this is the most phenomenal collection of this Paris fashion week. Or even, of the entire season. I’m bewitched.

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Collages by Edward Kanarecki.