In Ode to Marc…

December 18, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs, the fellow New York based designer, once upon a time came to the big house of Louis Vuitton. In 1997, the love story began, between this man and the legend- the first collection was presented. The opinions were very various- one said yes, one said faux pas. But throughout the years, Marc Jacobs got really connected with Vuitton. His new grunge visions, inspirations from movies, colourful prints and showgirl attitude were simply created just for this Parisian maison. Best models always walked on his runways- Naomi, Karolina, Anja, Lily and Lara were his. His show venues were always the most buzzed about (the Vuitton hotel, geometrical elevators, train stations…) in town.

For Marc, there was no ugly things at Vuitton. He always made things that looked for us bad, even better. The laundry bags, fur gloves, funny hats, afro, feathers have never been so reorganised as in Marc Jacobs hands. Definitely he is one of the biggest designers of 21st century… for being himself no matter what!

Madonna was tapped twice in Louis Vuitton’s campaign once as a Playboy bunny, and then as an African tribe-lady who was strolling in one of the Parisian caffee. Jacobs has also a long-time friendship with Kate Moss. She appeared in most of his runways, and always looked best in his extravagant creations for women.

Marc Jacobs did lots of collaborations with artists, making house of Louis not only a label, but a art-piece, something much more like an experience. Together with Yayoi Kusama or Takashi Murakami, Marc was surprising as every year with new ideas. He was also very into films- The Night Porter, Noir are just few of the titles that were inspirations for his show venues.

The SS14 collection was his last. He left Vuitton because he felt he needs a change. Now he will concentrate on his own line, Marc Jacobs in New York. The Summer show was opened by naked Edie Campbell, who had only feathers and graffiti on her body! That was a really beautiful Au Revoir from his side. But- good news- Nicolas Ghesquiere, ex creative designer of Balenciaga, will show his new visions for LV in March of 2014… We are all waiting impatiently to see on what he is up to!

Miuccia’s World

December 14, 2013January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Everything done by Miuccia Prada works on me. Her SS14 collection for Prada was the best collection of the season! Art, fashion and women power was never so linked together as now, when Prada’s theme of the collection are crystals, fur and prints… I was just on the press day of Prada’s SS14 accessories, and I should say, I am mesmerized. The nerdish sandals never looked so good. And then heels? Oh My Prada God. These acidic colours were so amazing! The Resort 2014 inspired with Hawaii is also a piece of art- everything is so embroidered and fragile. My favourite is the red floral dress… Great for every occasion! In other words, Prada nailed it this season. As always.

Interview with Helen Bullock

November 13, 2013January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Helen Bullock (Central Saint Martins BA, MA) is a textiles-driven label, using strong silhouettes as a platform for bold prints of a visceral nature. Throughout the seasons, work has been featured in publications including Dazed & Confused, i-D, and Vogue. And… now she’s up on Design & Culture by Ed !

EDWARD: Hi Helen. You are a young fashion designer from London, who graduated Central Saint Martins BA and MA, having your own label Helen Bullock and doing amazing illustrations during the fashion weeks. It’s all really impressive. Well, I hope you are doing fine?

HELEN: I AM!!!!

ED: What inspired you for this season’s collection? It’s so FULL of prints! And as I know, all textiles are designed by you.

H: Yes! All about the prints! As always a look across many different paths of imagery in an attempt to create my own visual story. At first I was driven by the bold honesty of graphic 60s prints, alongside a carefree image of Peggy Moffitt, combined with the intensity and composition of Keith Herrings work. Bit of a whirlwind really.

ED: Many designers usually find out they are going to be in fashion industry after sometime of studying different stuff. But when you were choosing your college, did you feel from the beginning you will be a fashion designer?

H: As the cliche often goes it really was something I dreamed of as a kid – but no more so perhaps than other options that preoccupied me. I eventually started studying fashion a little later than normal, and was a little resistant as thought the fashion pathway was a little predictable, and was thinking of myself as a fine artist. That all stopped though when I came across the idea of print … something that I’d never considered before, but seemed to bridge the gap so well between art and faaaashion!

ED: If you could choose, who would you love to wear your pieces? This can be an alive or dead person…

H: Well … I absolutely love it when Julie (Vehoeven) wears them …. but on a wish list Peggy Moffit would be super … and Iris Von Apfel would surely rock it!

ED: Who is your biggest fashion idol?

H: Anyone really who is prepared to take a risk and walk down the street holding their head high. I’m sat next to a lady Linda right now wearing a wonderful explosion of a Diana Freis dress…and dolly curls in her hair – we work together every Monday, and she never fails to impress.

ED: While you are a fashion designer, at the same time you’re contributing your fashion illustrations for A Magazine Curated By…. How would describe your drawing style?

H: Intuitive, sparing and in equal measures intense, at times awkward.

ED: Looking at your print erupting clothes, it seems you have a very energetic personality. Does your everyday style reflect the collections?

H: I hope so. I feel at a low if I’m not wearing brightness.

ED: If it’s not a secret- what are your next future steps for your label?

H: I’m trying to work my label as a limited edition made to order product. So rather than stockists, I’m almost searching for a place to exhibit the garment. At present though I’m setting up an on line shop, and have various collaborations in the pipeline.
I’m also hoping to add a range of scarfs to my next collection.

Eau de Gloire

November 10, 2013November 10, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

In homage to Jean Cocteau, Parfum d’Empire sign the Cologne “Eau de Goire” millésimée and limited edition. One way to give glory to the great poet for the fiftieth anniversary of his death. Director of life, multi-faceted artist, at a time and turn novelist, playwright, filmmaker, designer, he was the genius who hugged the life of an extraordinary artistic look.”Look like nothing, look like nobody. There is no praise that can touch me more.” This rare water is only published in 300 copies. From an exceptional maturity of 10 years, this wine has a unique character and complexity. A cologne that opens with the sparkling freshness of green notes ( galbanum ) and citrus (lemon, mandarin, bergamot ) aromates (lavender, myrtle, rosemary ) leather accents mingled with incense and hay.This is the alliance of opposites, fresh and hot, transparent notes and rich natural materials, softness and strength. Available at COLETTE

Berlin: Andreas Murkudis

November 8, 2013April 29, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Andreas Murkudis store in Berlin is definitely not the one that you will find in a shopping guide. I found this place thanks to Instagram, and I am really happy that I was there! The store is located not directly on the street, but in a stone house center. The walls there are pale white with neon lights all over the place. Labels like Celine, Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Kolor and Aesop are all in this huge space! And by the way… Not on perhaps, I arrived at an amazing fashion show of young, Berlin based designers, who were all here because of Woolmark reward! The gowns, sweaters and everything there was so out of this world… Just have a look at this very artistic world located in one store on Potsdamstrasse 81E.

Andrea Klussman and Viktoria Heise