Heatwave. Stella McCartney SS’2005

July 30, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lately I love going back to Stella McCartney‘s early collections. They are just so straightforward and simply chic. As the summer heatwave isn’t going anywhere for some time, here’s a throwback to Stella’s beachy spring-summer 2005 (which sometime ago I’ve unearthed in my “Summer of Jessa” newsletter post!). Here, the designer – who was still establishing her brand in Paris – played to her strengths: a smidge of vintage (think floaty floral chiffon dresses), a touch of lingerie (camisoles and bras used to good effect layered underneath tops or dresses), feminine tailoring (safari jackets worn over loose pants). And she made strong case for very-boho tiered skirts, letting them swoosh along the runway in white cotton muslin. Ah, simple times…

Inspired? Get a similar look.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Ruffled Silk-georgette Blouse

Stella McCartney Corduroy-trimmed Organic Cotton-twill Wide-leg Pants

Castañer Chiara 80 Metallic Canvas Wedge Espadrilles

Sonia Petroff Dragonfish Belt

Sachin & Babi Sabrina Gown

Isabel Marant Aurely Embellished Bouclé-trimmed Cotton-twill Jacket

Stella McCartney Lace-trimmed Jacquard Halterneck Maxi Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Gohar World (Surreal) Edit

July 25, 2024July 24, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Founded by sisters Laila and Nadia, Gohar World‘s surrealist tableware celebrates “time, tradition, and humour.” Each playfully shaped piece is designed in the label’s New York studio and crafted by family-owned ateliers around the world. Here are my favorite items from the brand’s line that will elevate any food-related celebration!

ED’s SELECTION:

Gohar World Set Of Two Pearl-embellished Cotton-lace Coasters

Gohar World Set Of Three Silver-tone Lemon Squeezers

Gohar World Hands Set Of Four Lace-appliquéd Cotton Napkins

Gohar World Seafood Fantasy 30-piece Dinner Set

Gohar World Hands On Host Faux Pearl-embellished Apron And Gloves Set

Gohar World Wrought Iron Egg Chandelier

Gohar World Swizzle Murano Glass Cocktail Sticks

Gohar World Host With The Most Metallic Apron And Pearl Jewelry Set

Gohar World Bow-embellished Satin Baguette Pouch

Gohar World Pumpkin Porcelain Tureen

Gohar World Sea Creatures Set Of Four Mother-of-pearl Spoons

Gohar World Set Of Two Silver-tone Dessert Coupes

Obsessed: Prada AW24 Menswear

July 23, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Some of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons‘ ideas might not resonate immediately when seen on the runway. But six months later, the moment they arrive to the stores, these concepts become more approachable – and turn into obsessions. A menacing tension felt palpable once the models, dressed as corporate commuters, walked on the raised glass floor with a stream running through a meadow beneath. But when you put Prada‘s autumn-winter 2024 venue aside, you see great, great menswear – and accessories, like the wool caps in the most striking shades of green, yellow and red. The collection itself consisted of ultimate classics of menswear, as Simons listed for “the businessman, the working man, the thinking man.” The Prada twist was about touches that subverted these safe spaces of identity, enticing the wearer to surround himself with nature. Narrow-fit raincoats, tweed chore jackets, three-button gray topcoats, and gold buttoned naval outerwear all offered a route outdoors. This is a Prada outing that offers safeness and quintessence, clothes-wise.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lived In Americana. Coach Resort 2025

July 13, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

I never really cared about what’s going on at Coach, but the resort 2025 lookbook has sparked my interest. Finally, a brand in New York that fills the blank space that Raf Simons left after creating the ambitious – and sadly aborted – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC project. Stuart Vevers similarly plays with the codes of Americana in a loveworn, weathered, and lived in way, with bits of cinematic, even horror-y drama. Vevers’s rather winter-ish resort collection is stuffed nostalgia-tinged fuzzy-soft cozy cable knits and full tweedy skirts with huge taffeta bows, rocking a Victoriana-goes-1950s vibe. Note how the oversized Argyle check knit polo shirts are designed to layer up at will, one of the many pieces in Vevers’ line-up denuded of gender specificity. Likewise the jewelry: diamanté bows and chandelier earrings to pin here, there, and everywhere, and single earrings with a delightfully kitschy quality to them – pumpkins, candy canes, essentially the John Waters-approved inventory of holiday tree decorations. For layering up with those sweaters Vevers suggests a ratty tee emblazoned with Popeye; it was inspired by a black and white image of Debbie Harry back in the day wearing a t-shirt with the pipe smoking, spinach loving cartoon character. Popeye isn’t the only pop cultural icon in play here as the designer was also looking at images of Twin Peaks stars Madchen Amick and Lara Flynn Boyle between takes, in their homespun, 1950s-esque looks warped by David Lynch.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Ease of Today. Carven Pre-Fall 2024

July 11, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

The best indicators of whether a brand is taking shape under a new creative director are not the runway collections, but the pre-collections. Judging by the pre-fall 2024 lookbook, Louise Trotter‘s Carven certainly is on the right path to be your new favorite Parisian brand. “It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said the British designer, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Comparing to other designers in Paris who struggle with reviving historic Parisian maisons (think Nina Ricci and Rochas), Trotter isn’t stepping into the trap of the archives. She isn’t pulling out a mid-century dress and trying to make it look somehow relevant in 2024. But she smartly deconstructs elements of Madame Carven’s sensibility, and incorporates them into contemporary Carven. For instance, the 1950s column silhouette is revisited in a tank dress worn over a t-shirt. For pre-fall, the designer is gravitating towards a more masculine wardrobe; think sweatshirt in sheepskin or a technical Prince of Wales trouser. The softly tailored coat that comes in either double-face cashmere or chocolate wool gabardine is phenomenal. “I want to find solutions for her life, as I do for myself,” Trotter noted. “It’s instinctive for me. These are pieces that I appreciate and want to wear.” Other women will, too.