HC – Mash Up. Maison Margiela AW15

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I have very mixed feelings about John Galliano designing for Maison Margiela. His first haute couture collection was warmly welcomed, but partly because it was his debut after a long period of pause; his AW15 ready-to-wear was all about eccentric ladies which couldn’t be us dramatic as they wanted to be – in other words, this collection felt tamed and unnecessarily too calm, like if the designer was scared to shock. And now, as we already got used to Galliano at Margiela, its time for a honest opinion about this case. The new haute couture presented yesterday in Paris looked like a collection designed by a young fashion student who sewed it just before the dead-line, having in mind a chaotic mood-board without any sensible idea. Minimal silhouettes (which totally don’t match John’s adoration to opulence), glitter scattered all over the mini-dresses, a bit of tapestry embellished onto the capes and a big, white garbage bag instead of a beautiful bridal dress. And additionally the idea of Japanese sharpness which was suddenly presented in form of an obi-belted coat. It utterly felt like Galliano didn’t have any precise idea for this season and for this collection. Showing off trashy styling, shoes made for “breaking your legs” and telling people that its all so into Martin Margiela’s spirit makes me feel hurt. I love Martin Margiela as Martin Margiela and I used to love John Galliano, to sum it up.

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Interview with Brandon Stanciell

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Brandon Stanciell photographs women and men, using nature as the main props. For Design & Culture by Ed‘s April issue, we’ve caught up with him – here is the interview you don’t want to miss!

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You’re calling your self “The Man Who Loved Flowers”. Is there anything behind your enchanting title?

Maybe it’s not too enchanting, haha. The name is inspired by a short story by Stephen King titled, “The Man Who Loved Flowers” I like to believe that my camera is the hammer the uses and the women whom I shoot photos of are “Norma” it’s kind of weird. I also refer to the women as being the actual flowers in my work. I love flowers. Theres a more deeper meaning to it I guess.

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 I guess it’s have to be this day,(April 28th 2014 to be exact haha)
when I shot photos of Agne. That was the day It kinda all started. It kind of started on accident to be honest. We went to the poppy fields to take photos, it was so windy and cloudy we didn’t think they’d come out good. Got home, uploaded the photos to the computer and fell in love.

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What do you usually want to convey to the viewer of your photographs?

When viewers see my work I want them to see more than just a photo. I want them to look at every detail. Try to feel or smell the flowers. Not  just “a model with flowers”, but a painted portrait of flowers ya know.

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I discovered your work thanks to “Thinker of Exquisite Thoughts” on Instagram. This work tells us so much. How can you describe it?

– It’s the beginning of a new series I’ve been working on. Its a reference to Shel Silverstein’s “The Thinker Of Tender Thoughts”  , staying true to oneself when face to face with society. It’s also a self-presentation of how my thoughts/art work start off for the love of flowers “Thinker of Tender Thoughts” then grows into something more beautiful more interesting, as I start to understand the love of flowers “Thinker of Exquisite Thoughts”. SPOILER ALERT: There will be a part three, possible 4 so watch out for that…

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Your photographs are characterised with diverse, beautiful casting of models – is it also connected to your vision?

Yeah I’d like to think so. Most the “models” I work with are friends or coworkers (I use to work at American Apparel) people I see often, that have something about them I just couldn’t shake, so I had to photograph them. They’re all a huge help and I appreciate them for dealing with how weird I work, walking around in neighborhoods and shooting In someone’s front yard, shooting in front of apartment complexes. We do a lot of walking so it’s a workout too haha.

More on http://www.valleyhoodlum.us

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Louise Bourgeois. Simone Rocha AW15

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The layers of Simone Rocha’s dresses overlapped themselves like Louise Bourgeois sculptures. “I just absolutely love her work and the fact that it’s so personal. Also a lot of it is very textile based, but I love all of her materials – marble, wood, glass, and the contrast of it. Even though it was personal to her a lot of people relate to it,” Rocha noted backstage. The tapestry-like textiles were combined with sheer mesh while hair-like fur with florals. “I read recently that when she (Louise) was asked to go and have her photo taken she said she was so nervous she would rather hide behind her work so she just brought this huge phallus with her, which I think is a great idea,” Rocha said. “I’d much rather be behind a rail of clothes right now!”

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Andre Saraiva / Advent 2014

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December 6: Andre Saraiva, the French artist is not only a party beast I would love to meet on a big event, but also a painter who makes streets look hyper and cooler with his iconic MR.A! Andre’s character is always cheerful, smiley and… a bit tipsy, in a good way.

Tuscany: Siena

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Siena, the charming town located around a hour from Florence, is the most beautiful place in Tuscany. Not because of only architecture. Also because of the people, the way they celebrate, live! And they really do their traditional holidays in an amazing way. La Contrada, that happened yesterday (when I was present in Siena) is for example the biggest celebration of the year in Siena, when 17 districts with different name meanings, conquer by the traditional games like throwing with a flag or horse-riding. Whoever wins, later the big feast is always the happiest moment in the town, when all locals feel like family! And no tourists are here then… 20130816-094717 AM.jpg20130816-094727 AM.jpg20130816-094741 AM.jpg20130816-094756 AM.jpg
The most important building is the Duomo, the church that is an art masterpiece. Decorated with thousands of small detailed sculptures on the facade, the frescos inside and the domes are just breath taking. The Duomo has different parts- in the crypt you shall see a beautiful painting of Caravaggio, and in the library the first real developed books in the world. This place is amazing, and you know what- it is not so tapping in religious way. When the priest was telling the locals the prayer, for me in Italian, it all sound like if he talked with his buddies in a Trattoria and not doing a big thing from that! That’s a real Italian way of life! Love it! 20130816-095524 AM.jpg

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But while you are in Siena, it’s best to forget about your problems, and simply get lost in one of the streets! Buy some cool souvenirs, fruits and just wander around the city. I simply fell in love with all these hand made plates with fruit patterns on it… This town in other words is not on the city of art, but the city of juicy life!

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