Saying that Hedi Slimane is lazy, as wrote Cathy Horyn, is a simple bah. A guy who redesigns everything from the logo to the showroom furnitures in his boutiques of Saint Laurent, doesn’t seem to be lazy at all. Hedi Slimane did a huge revolution at Saint Laurent and in fashion world, that seemed to be very peaceful comparing AW13 with the grunge/punk/Roc &Roll collection. And in reality, Slimane didn’t do this for more controversy- no, it’s all simply his aesthetics. When the designer of SL is not at work, he isn’t kissing Pinault’s ass for money but hangs out with friends/musicians in LA! So there is nothing that is done for more money. Well it is, but it’s not enforcing. People will still buy this kind of Yves Saint Laurent. So, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wins the second place in AW13 ranking of best collections!
AW13
N.1 Collection AW13 Celine
Autumn Winter 2013 has a N.1 collection that beat all others- it’s of course Celine! No one else could be better than this Parisian label. With it’s geometrical tops, changing forms skirts, fur dresses and up-the-knee leather boots, Phoebe Philo’s collection just couldn’t be a un success. The triangle handbags in checks or leather look very refreshing, just as the creme pistachio coloured coat! And the grey dress with tied sleeves in the front is more a conceptual art, than a casual costume for everyday! The campaign starring Daria Werbowy by Juergen Teller is simple and very sensual- as always beautiful and fragile! Bravo to the winner of AW13!
Hitchcockian Seduction
Hermes by Christophe Lemaire for AW13 is revisting the Hitchcock woman into a new generation- perfect anonymous chic to provide a subtle charge. This is what Parisian Hermes should be like- a bit menswear, elegant and super chic. This is a antidote for the colour splash on the street style, that for a long time won’t wear Hermes for everyday. But why? Too expensive? Yes it is,but not form these Russian girls and American billlionaires. Hermes clothes do not have a label name EVERYWHERE. Ok, when Mira Duma wears this black tweed costume with fur pompon, there is no double C on it, but everyone who is interested a bit in fashion knows it’s Chanel. What I love in Hermes is the classical touch and this simplicity in every cape, fur… That is so beautiful!
Design & Culture by Ed 