In support for the Black community, I continue celebrating and highlighting the talented individuals that shape fashion today. Take notes! Stella Jean, Rome-based designer with Haitian origins, is recognized as the first Black Italian designer. She is considered to be Giorgio Armani’s protégé, and her collections are some of the boldest moments every Milan fashion week. The basis of Jean’s work is multiculturalism applied to fashion, resulting in a cultural fusion of her own métisse identity. Her work often merges classical Italian tailoring with stylistic features of varying cultures, whether its wax prints from Burkina Faso or artisan embroideries made in India. Above is my all-time favourite Stella Jean look from her delightful autumn-winter 2014 collection. For more of the designer, see my previous posts on her or check out her site!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.
Haider Ackermann‘s AW14 perfection.
Of course, Haider Ackermann has many things to look back at this decade: his Berluti stint, all the custom looks he created for Tilda Swinton and Timothee Chalamet for their red carpet appearances, every single menswear and womenswear collection he presented… but there’s one line-up I will never forget. The autumn-winter 2014 collection. That time, Ackermann utterly seduced with his sensual silhouette, garbed in contrasting cuts and volumes. Some of the garments were built for street (biker jackets, mannish jackets, comfy cardigans, skinny cropped jeans), others were decidedly more refined (floor-sweeping duster coats, oversized trousers, draped jersey dresses, and plunging tops, all sent out in autumn-ish, masculine fabrics – tweeds, plaids, houndstooth, flannel, fur and felt galore). A poised, poetically dark allure.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
December 21: Before, Marc by Marc Jacobs was a sister line of Marc Jacobs which, in reality, needed a boost. Basically, it was boring and ultra-commercial. But since Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley took the label over, it’s so, so BOOM-BOOM-POW.Their AW14 was all about Bolshevik-fonted dresses and skate-girl attitude, while SS15 was all about latex, polka dots and being kawaii. And the famous cornrows used in both collections, give the girls a sharp look.These two Brits feel like at home in New York… BRAVO to the new MBMJ!
December 19: Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are a lovely couple which makes the most eccentric denim (and not only) fashion in the world. Playing with volumes, colours and vibes, since the beginning Marques Almeida has been acclaimed by fashion editors as the new “go-to” brand of the year. My favourite thing that they did for 2014, was their crazy, very strong AW14 collection, where the designers had fun with fur stoles! Marta and Paulo also created a “spark”, making their signature fabric get really important on the London fashion scene.
December 3: Miuccia Prada owned the AW14 season at Prada with her melancholic collection kept in tune of Barbara Sukova’s orchestra and 70’s nostalgia vibe.