Rick Owens, the master of darkness (and great Parisian athlete at the same time) created a new iconic collection for men that wasn’t so dark… after SS14’s Estonian heavy-metal group performance, this time we are getting seriously religious in a new, minimalistic aesthetic. The collection kept in brown, creme and black, was very sporty and at the same interesting. Models wore nun’s head covers, classical Rick Owens trainers and leather sweatpants… combined with lose unitarian vests and over sized tops. Is this the new sign of religious vs. fashion friendship? Hope so because Ricky did it in a great way.
AW14
Men’s: Ruby. Raf Simons AW14
Since yesterday, Sterling Ruby is the hottest artist of the moment. Why? He collaborated with Raf Simons on his AW14 Menswear collection in Paris, by creating the venue decoration and putting some artistic effort into the collection. And the collection was… well, a bit unexpected. Raf Simons usually does sophisticated sportswear, and now we have something vibrant, colourful. With some cosmic details on (the bumber boots look seriously out of this world!) the sweatshirts and coats, the collection was simply cool and fresh. The radiant chunky knitwears with square patches, camel coats broken with Mondrian like print and paint splash shirts are my favourites. It’s visible, who is the real art collector in the industry…

Men’s. Haider Ackermann AW14
Haider Ackermann’s men collections are always my favourite. Haider, known for his Andalusian-Parisian chic, makes men and women always look stylish and unique. This super luxurious collection of silk, jacquard and leather is of course nothing else! The AW14 was a mix of comfortable, long-length coats, jackets reminding tunics and greatly crafted sweatpants that just gave the whole collection a street wear vibe. And of course the non-chalantly tied scarf… so Ackermann! I would definitely wear all of this.

Men’s: Ethno. Valentino AW14
The introduction of this men’s couture only further ratchets up the degree of luxury Piccioli and Chiuri have made it their business to sell. But the twist at their Valentino is that with each new turn of the gilded screw, the look of luxe gets less and less. The collection has never looked looser. Suits have mostly melted into pajamas; trousers into jeans; shirt-and-tie into sweatshirt-and-scarf. Perfect for Alpes Resort vacations and… casual daywear!

Men’s: Pastels. Gucci AW14
That was really elegant collection. To death. Frida Gianini for Gucci created a very simple collection for AW14 using pastel and black colours. Coats. Wool sweaters. Black trousers. Suits. And that’s it. After seeing so much colour during the fashion week, this collection feels a bit sad and too formal. Fashion used to be fun at Gucci…





