Cultural Fashion

August 31, 2014August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fashion and culture always had a power, if joint together. So no wonder why the artsy trend for fall’14 are so strong- we’ve got Bauhaus architecture, we’ve got Russian films and we’ve got dadaism- an art movement of the European avant-garde in the early 20th century. Many claim Dada began in Zurich, Switzerland in 1916, spreading to Berlin shortly thereafter but the height of New York Dada was the year before, in 1915. One of the most famous dada artist is Hannah Höch. The collage art movent which had a lot of grey, khaki and solemn colours, got spotted at Celine, Carven and Haider Ackermann this season.

Weimar was another artistic movement, but this time coming from Germany. With Bauhaus at it’s roots, Weimar was popular for it’s geometrical forms, strong colours and minimalism. The rectangular pockets from Givenchy are totally Weimar, isn’t it? And these Jacquemus coats and bold, Thomas Tait dresses…

Bauhaus! art school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught. It operated from 1919 to 1933. At that time the German term Bauhaus – literally “house of construction” – was understood as meaning “School of Building”. It’s most famous graduate? Mies Van Der Rohe. But nowaday, it’s Prada, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Dior and Acne, who does the symetrical silhouttes and metallic “constructions” in their designs (best example- that Prada wedge).

If talking of cinema, Miuccia Prada learnt by hard all the scens of The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. This German movie from 1972 has an all-female cast and is set in the home of the protagonist, Petra von Kant (Berliner fashion designer). It follows the changing dynamics in her relationships with the other women. It’s very sensual, and the clothes and mood perfectly match into Prada’s AW14.

The Place of Meeting Can’t be Changed is a Russian movie, which has it’s plot happening in 1945, Moscow. The fashion here strongly reflects Nicolas Ghesquiere’s debutant Louis Vuitton collection. The higlighted collars, masculine jackets, v cuts, floral prints and tweed are all very, very 40’s.

Aah, Marlene Dietrich! The famous singer and actress, all-time fashion icon! Her flawless gowns and love to non-chalant fur is strongly visible in the moodboards of such designers like Jason Wu, Rodebjer and Ports 1961. In other words, lady-like, chic and effortless.

Celine’s AW14 Jewellery

August 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Phoebe Philo’s Celine jewellery line rules. One ear earring that looks like a mini chandelier; then the crystal over-sized bracelets in olive, khaki, purple and blue are so damn good. Maybe these pieces aren’t the most minimalistic and casual, but surely one of these bracelets will steal he spotlight of the whole evening outfit.

Men Behind

July 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

While searching 2002 in fashion, I found the first runway collection by Rick Owens. The mood of Owens’ presentation was somber—a dark, raw space and a sound track of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop—but the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy. Not one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays, chalky white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy ankle-length sweater coats, while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather jackets the designer is known for.But all those greys and forms reminded me of something- the latest Haider Ackermann collection for women. His AW14 was totally like the description of Rick’s in 2002, but a bit more romantic and soft. I love both of these, and I can’t say that Haider copied Rick- rather, he was inspored by him and his first dark fashion moment.

Acne Dibs

July 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Acne’s AW14 is a collection, which you must understand. The Ikea like printed textiles, psychodelic patterns, wooden “masai-like” plate necklaces, simple, pastel colours… we our somewhere between minimalistic Scandinavia and tribal Africa. Initial and final reaction? A dynamic burst of contrasting prints and unconventionally structured garments, with underlying elements of sportswear innovation. And the unexpected headwear… ann abstract take on the timeless bobble hat, fabricated in duck-egg blue tweed, charcoal fur, caramel felt and rough silvery grey wool. They were worn oversized, leaving half of each models face peeping through. I feel this collection well- one of the strongest by Acne Studios! Photos by Lea Colombo.

HC: Red. Viktor & Rolf AW14

July 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Viktor & Rolf thought of something so clear for today’s celebrities- red carpets. For their third haute couture show, they changed the whole runway into an endless red carpet. And, amazingly, the clothes were also red… and were made out of carpets, mostly. If you are interested how to knot your red, bathroom rug around your body, here is your perfect guide. Should I write more?