Becoming a Woman

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Guillaume Henry raised Carven, a fellow couture house of the past, into a commercial success. For the past six seasons, he’s at Nina Ricci, another Parisian maison, doing what he’s best at – reviving the spirit of a brand, and making it alive in contemporary times. But first, lets look at the history of Ricci’s legacy. Origing from Turin, Maria Nielli literally became Nina Ricci upon arrival in Paris, when she combined her nickname with her husband’s last name. Her haute couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines, complete with the design atelier and salons for client fittings. Her technique, cuts, balance and intriguing use of materials defined the Nina Ricci woman – elegant simplicity.

After years of slight oblivion, the house welcomed extremely talented Olivier Theyskens. However, his designs weren’t that sellable, and the next creative director was named: Peter Copping. His era at Nina Ricci was, well, unremarkable, filled with plain collections of boring clothes (I think the same of his few season tenure at Oscar de la Renta…). And then, Ricci named Guillaume its creative designer, and that was a right choice.

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Robe coats made of rich fabrics scent with luxury, and the sequined dresses that are Henry’s signature at Ricci look feminine and powerful. The clothes for autumn-winter 2016 are versatile to a great extend – a pinstripe suit worn with a pastel pink turtleneck can switch with grace from daywear to eveningwear, while the sheer midi-dresses are both assertive and… romantic. Nina Ricci’s recent wardrobe revamp is mature and lady-like, proudly targetting women in their 40s and up – for intellectual, individual personas, who know their style best.

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Oh, and take a look at this fluroscent, transparent top – love its edginess, which contrasts with AW16’s elegant chic!

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Lets Talk Socks

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Miu Miu pre-fall 2016

You’re about to read this post, but simultaneously you’re an absolute nay-sayer to socks? Better leave, bye.

But if you feel a long-lasting affair with this, somewhat, unconventional topic, then me and you are in the same club. Thick socks are no longer just there, to keep you warm in winter; white socks aren’t reserved for the bald pals from the bloc (or, so-called Gosha boys – a more high-end, fashion term); graphic socks worn with trainers don’t shout, “I’m a hipster” (wait, is somebody still using this word? Take them out of their cave, please!). Sadly, this footwear necessity of every wardrobe used to be laughed at because of all those stereotypes rooted in society’s heads. Fashion industry, fortunately, decided to support those poor, little socks, pimping them up and making a statement – socks are as important in accessories game as your handbag, headband or, yeah, shoes. So, who’s laughing now?

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Lotta Volkova nailing a Soviet, school-girl look / Vetements autumn-winter 2016

Miuccia Prada can be easily called a pioneer of introducing socks to the world of glamorous, high fashion. Last few decades ago, she was brave enough to make them look modern-day elegant and chic on her runway. Today, in both of her brands, Prada and Miu Miu, socks are the best-selling pieces world-wide. For autumn/winter season, Miuccia styled biscuity-brown, up-to-the-knee socks with velvet platforms at Miu; for resort 2017, she pulled off a line of fashionably unfashionable colourful checks and stripes, (not)matching the bricollage ballerina flats. At the main line’s spring/summer 2017 show for men, Prada was into in-land trekking, and – prepare, haters – her models wore bold socks with Teva-like sandals. Ha!

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Prada autumn-winter 2016

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Having fun / Miu Miu resort 2017

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Prada men’s spring-summer 2017

Another socks-loving designer is Alessandro Dell’AcQua, founder of Milan-based No21 and creative director of Rochas, a French couture house. With grace, the designer styles embroidered socks with embellished kitten-heels and satin platforms. In the result, his combinations with colour and texture appear to have a spontanous, soigné manner, oozing with lady-like appeal. Alessandro Michele, the man behind Gucci‘s re-birth, searched deep in British fashion culture for his resort 2017 show. The effect? Deluxe Camden market girls in thrift-shop-like fur coats fancy edgy, very kitschy lace knee-socks in the most vibrant shades.

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Lace socks with studded ruffle elements. Legendary. / Gucci resort 2017

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Rochas + Kappa / Rochas autumn-winter 2016

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Rochas resort 2017

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Rochas resort 2017

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Electric blue, polished burgundy and sweet pastels / Rochas autumn-winter 2016

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No21 pre-fall 2016

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Gucci resort 2017

There is no precise number of socks varieties  – but the season’s most off-kilter version was delivered by Acne Studios. Add ‘body-socks’ to your vocabulary. In other words, this is an extremely intriguing something between skinny pants and sheer tights. If you’re heading for this one, consider experimenting with leopard print (fashion show way).

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Acne Studios autumn-winter 2016

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Acne Studios autumn-winter 2016

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Socks for life! Btw, have you read my short ‘guide’ on tights and hosiery? No? Click here.

Holland & Holland

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In modern-day times, nearly everything is done with the use of high technology. Sadly, this results in low quality products that aren’t as durable and long-lasting as they used to be in the past. That’s why, brands which thrive to preserve tradition and keep it in harmony with contemporary win my heart. Meet Holland & Holland, a British house found in 1835 with a historical speciality for outdoor apparel, guns and ready-to-get-dirty accessories for the woods. Today, the brand is re-invented by two, fantastic women, Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor. The first is a top-model, who regularly closes Chanel shows and stars in high-fashion campaigns; the second worked as a Vogue fashion editor. You can easily say that the duo breathes with fashion; but instead of resting on laurels, they decided to challenge themselves in the role of creative directors for a not-so-glossy brand.

What can you expect from Tennant’s and Cawdor’s take on a heritage brand which values top-notch quality and functionality for the outdoor activities?  The menswear codes of Holland & Holland are reflected in masculine silhouettes and the emphasis on classical tweed, however the designers eagerly introduce feminine softness to women’s pieces. Understanding the country life (Stella and Isabella live in Scottish highlands, and they are surrounded by moors since being kids), the newest collection is a versatile wardrobe of knitted goods, shirts, outerwear, tailoring and accessories which can be worn simultaneosly for family hunting, and to the city. Also, Holland & Holland’s refreshed vision considers British, off-kilter style, and a mandatory weather practicality – a must for every Brit. “We’re making quality clothes to deal with the weather and to look good in. It’s very simple,” Tennant says. If talking of spending a chilly day in the forest, layering and camouflage-effect are the key according to Stella – the colours are inspired by the warm colour palette of green landscape. ‘Most of these clothes camouflage brilliantly. What pops out in an urban setting is the houndstooth tweed,’ Cawdor adds. ‘But in the landscape you can’t see it. For hill and moorland, tweed is camouflage.’ Below, see how Tennant wears these beautiful midi-skirts and fox fur collars in the background of Scottish nature.

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Holland & Holland, under the wings of Tennant and Cawdor, isn’t only about durable gear for urban and rural life, but “it’s the little details that make things good or not“. The model praises local artisans and fabrics. “For example we have done very classic V-necks, round necks and polo necks, but we spent a lot of time getting the right weight of cashmere, the right density of the knit. The kind of water the wool is washed in affects the yarn (all of the yarns come from mills in Hawick on the banks of the River Teviot). The Italians like a much fluffier knit, but traditionally in Scotland it’s a dryer, cleaner finish. That’s what we like.’ Indeed, the feeling of these hearty clothes is much more rawer – without any additional embroideries, embellishment or catchy prints. It’s just as it is, pure and modern-aristocratic.

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More on Holland & Holland website

Christian Wijnants

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Usually, when I discover a designer which I haven’t known earlier, I’m living a one-day obsession with him or her. But with Christian Wijnants, I have a mania which will surely last for longer. With a soft point for Belgian fashion, no wonder why I’ve fallen in love with Wijnants’ unique, lady-like vision. Christian graduated from prestige Royal Academy of Fine Arts (‘Antwerp Six’ rings a bell?), and found his eponymous label back in 2003. As most of Belgian designers, he presents his collections to editors and buyers in Paris, and just a year ago, he opened his first flagship store in Antwerp – the city where his studio is based in. For autumn / winter 2016, Wijnants’ look-book oozes with urban femininity, peculiar colour combinations and bold patterns. A contemporary, style-conscious woman will go for one of those coats, questioning which colour is better – tangerine orange or pastel turquoise. Both look ground-breaking, so the choice isn’t easy. Knitted, olive-green turtlenecks are styled with striped baby-pink skirts, while the fluffy, fur cushion-clutches are this season’s candies out of all other accesories. The puffa jacket (of course in stripes!) is a burning desire, too. Is it a wardrobe of a modern-day dame? She’s an eccentric character, who loves to wear a pair of synthetic-white gloves to brunch!

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Couture – Fairy-Tale. Fendi AW16

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90th anniversary for Fendi is not just an anniversary. It’s an occasion to show off. And Karl Lagerfeld proudly celebrated the event during his last haute couture show for the Italian house, making the entire Rome gasp. The show was literally staged on Trevi Fountain, fresh off a $2.4 million rehab. Like in a fairy-tale, the models walked down a transparent, elevated runway, while Fellini-famed symbol of the eternal city has never looked that glamorous and fashionable. No doubt this fashion show will be remembered forever as one of the most magnificent and daring – this can be easily said about the fur creations, which graced the runway, too.

Since the very beginnings of the brand, Fendi was known for “fun fur” – the most fantastically decorated fur coats and jackets were delivered from Roman ateliers, pleasing the aristocratic Italian families and clients. Lagerfeld embraces Fendi’s specific, couture legacy through fourrure, and autumn-winter 2016 is his second one (the first one was also presented as a winter season last July). Words can’t describe the beauty of these masterpieces. A pink dress seemed to be made out of simple lace, but in fact it was Persian lamb with 5000 hand-cut holes. Mosaic-style scene of an enchanted forest was presented on a mink coat thanks to an old technique of stitching and cutting. Some dresses were appliquéd with hand-sculpted flowers from mink. Crotchet gowns oozed with antique chic, embroidered with long-hair mink and fringed leather. “This is what Fendi is all about. No other fur house in the world does it, or could do it” the creative director said during a press conference. That’s a true statement, Karl.

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