The last few days of Paris fashion week were rather unimpressive, and that’s a pity, as the season had manygreatmoments. While Miu Miu was quite a joke, Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s collection for Louis Vuitton made me think of the designer’s past. His work at Balenciaga was unforgettable – the vision of future wardrobe, über-cool spontaneity, memorable shoes. His very first collections at Vuitton were incredible, too. But for the last few seasons, Ghesquiere seems to rest on his laurels: biker-girl gears, satin dresses, sporty knits. Same story of a “contemporary girl”. Maybe he didn’t want to introduce anything new this season? Designers slowly start to turn their heads towards being permanent in terms of fashion. But Nicolas’ autumn-winter 2017 collection wasn’t classic. It didn’t have a spark. Well, yes, it was presented at the Louvre. But shouldn’t the clothes be in the spotlight? Big, corporate brands like Louis Vuitton tend to put pressure on things like settings, handbags, etc., but it hurts to see how Ghesquiere’s bright talent begins to drown.
Back in 2014, System Magazine asked Miuccia Prada to explain the differences between her main line and Miu Miu. According to the interview, designing at Miu Miu is much less complicated for Miuccia, whereas at Prada, it’s sometimes a struggle – the label is a synonym of ‘sophistication’, both for women’s and men’s fashion. Miu Miu’s soul is naive; spontaneous; immediate. For autumn-winter 2017, I didn’t get those three terms at Miu Miu. Edginess is definitely something that accompanied a Miu Miu girl throughout the years – but this season, it’s too much. Not that I don’t have a soft spot for purple faux-fur (especially when it’s used as a carpet) or fluffy hats. But I doubt that this overdose of 70s psychedelia and 30s technicolor does any good. Bold prints, over-sized collars, tiaras, geek boots: although all of them are Miu Miu signatures, this time they feel senseless combined together. In other words, the collection looks ridiculous. And surely incomparable to Prada collection (which was presented a few weeks ago in Milan), where the designer took us to another level of femininity.
1987. The year A.P.C. was found by Jean Touitou. 2017 – the brand celebrates its 30th anniversary. 30 years of apparel clothing that actually defines the real nature of ready-to-wear. It’s often unclear why A.P.C. became one of the most beloved brands. “It’s boring“, one might say. So what? Their raw denim is well-cut. T-shirts last for years and make the customer satisfied. Trench coats and white shirts are ultimate essentials. A.P.C.’s branding is aesthetical perfection, just like the boutiques, music albums and candles. What’s best – although A.P.C. shows during Paris fashion week, it stays surprisingly affordable (and believe me, when the sale season starts, their Mitte store in Berlin – just like in another cities – becomes a treasure chest).
For autumn-winter 2017, as you might expect, the creative director decided to keep it classic. Anniversaries are no big deal! The clothes are the priority, so it’s quite guaranteed you will fall in love with every single piece. Fur jackets, maxi-dresses, even the thick socks. Oh, and denim! Really, wear it the you want. Over a coat, as a scarf, a lovely jumpsuit or simple jacket.
While watching Chitose Abe‘s Sacai latest outing, I had no doubts it was a proper, winter collection. While other designers go for mindless slip-dresses and flesh-exposing silhouttes, Abe layered, layered and again, layered. The duvet jacket with fur collar and colour inserts will be a perfect choice for freezier days. What’s more, Chitose shares tips on how to wear a) ankle-lenght dresses under voluminous outerwear and b) style denim midi-skirts when the temperature drops. The designer is a master in terms of textile combinations – I loved the way she mixed warm tweed with sheer, black silk in skirts and jackets. Brilliant!