AW19

Stable. Jil Sander AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

The pursuit after ‘new Céline’ is getting intense, and people say Jil Sander might be the right candidate to fill the gap. But the brand’s designers – Lucie and Luke Meier – aren’t copying Phoebe Philo, and have no intentions to. They do their thing, with Jil Sander’s soft minimalist spirit in mind. The Meiers’ vision of the brand is consistent since their debut few seasons ago. Tailoring with relaxed fit, comfortable, big bags, earthy colour palette with eventual splashes of pastel. This season, the couple nailed the topic of dresses. Whether we’re speaking of a loosely fitted chemise or an ankle-length black gown, it’s the sensual v-neck cut that feels refreshing about them. Jil Sander’s fashion was minimal, true, but simultaneously feminine – that’s a statement the Meiers highlight every season to end the stereotype of cold, stern image the brand got drowned in. Still, a scarf would be more than welcome for all those revealing cuts, since it’s an autumn-winter collection. Wait, we’ve got a duvet jacket – every brand has one this season – that will keep you warm. Jil Sander is stable – it doesn’t ‘wow’ you, true, but the collections please with their well-balanced content. I think it’s in good hands. 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Good To See You Back. Zanini AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Marco Zanini, how good to see you back! This truly talented designer of Italian-Swedish origins had his stints at Rochas (those were truly brilliant seasons comparing to today’s state of things at the brand) and Schiaparelli, then did a few capsules for Santoni, and disappeared from the radar for a while. Now he’s back, better than ever, completely free, with his own namesake brand – Zanini. What it’s like to be on your own? “Finally, independence!” he told Vogue. “Of course, it’s a gamble, but this way feels more conscious, more authentic.” Zanini is thinking small, and proudly so – two collections per year, well-edited line-ups, quiet showroom presentations. But sometimes, less is really more. His debut collection can be described in one term: exquisite. Beautiful, beautiful tailoring and coats that you will make you drool. Cozy knitwear and beanies made in collaboration with his sister, Miki Zanini, who’s an avid knitter. The designer was in Japan last summer, and he came back with kimono silks that he’s cut into seamless bias dresses, airy and laid-back, but surprising with their construction. He can produce them in limited editions of two, a small number, but true to Marco’s intimate approach. “A lot of us are looking for something special, not overexposed.” That’s a fact. At a first glance, you might say that Zanini is the Milan alternative of The Row – one-off, logo-free, top-notch quality garments. But comparing to the Olsens and their uncompromising minimalism, Marco’s brand radiates with warmth and tactility. Summing up, Zanini is one of the best things I’ve seen in Milan this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

It’s a Ball. Richard Quinn AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Since the Queen herself took a seat front row at Richard Quinn’s show exactly a year ago, the designer’s show is a must-see show in London, that’s for sure. While the majority of the looks were all about Quinn’s signature, bold floral prints, the first looks were coats in tartan plaid and houndstooth – nothing more British than that. But then, when you go through the next looks, you might realise they don’t differ strongly from this what we’ve seen in the last seasons from Richard. What seemed to be a novelty was black latex, used for long gloves and tights that peaked from underneath the over-sized ball dresses and equally voluminous lady-like coats. I thought it looked restricting and uncomfortable on the models, through. Couture touches are Quinn’s specialty: black tulle went with gorgeously embroidered dresses and the feathered ‘hoods’ that closed the show were the ultimate highlights. Still, hope to see the designer slightly change his repertoire next season, as he gets repetitive.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Time for Fantasy. JW Anderson AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson’s autumn-winter 2019 collection was a play with construction. From the architectural grey coats and statuesque shoulder pads to fluid-like drapes and airy, over-sized frocks, this was a JW Anderson line-up, where you can actually turn to a number of completely different things. Also, as it turned out, Anderson wanted to go ‘fashion’ this season, in this today rare, uplifting, statement-making manner. “The idea of a woman walking on clouds – this idea of fantasy and imagination in fashion,” he backstage. “I mean, that’s why we do it.” While the last few shows he presented for women at his namesake brand felt overly sophisticated, this one was a like a much-needed, carefree moment. Not ridiculous or pretentious, but joyous and with a bit of distance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Kinky Things. Christopher Kane AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Christopher Kane loves the topic of sex in fashion. If you think of some of his previous seasons’ sex-related hits – like the lace, C-string details or the illustrations from ‘Joy of Sex’ book placed all over the dresses – it’s clear that Kane understands sexuality quite differently than majority of other designers. It’s nothing shallow or obvious, that’s for sure. The autumn-winter 2019 collection was about kinky fetishes, of all sorts. Latex, chainmail elements, leather, lace, even fantasies on food and balloons (conveyed in cheeky prints), were intriguingly incorporated into brilliant garments, like a lady-like coat or an evening gown. The fluid-filled plastic details, that appeared on Kane’s runway a couple of years ago, had something slinky about them, but they were far from tacky. However, if you’re not crazy for kink, feel free to pull the theme apart, and here we are with a collection filled with gorgeous daywear (see the cardigans, knee-length skirts and shirting) and equally good eveningwear. But then… why not go a bit down the risky path?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.