Gods & Monsters. Valentino AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Paris shows either offered a new, radical take on mundane realism (the “give us nothing” energy) or a walk down the nostalgia lane. The 1980s are everywhere you look, from the shoulders to the brisky patterns and colors. But this season the presence of the 1980s aren’t giving the confidence of a “power look” – but rather, the crippling feeling of recession, stock market crash and melancholia.

Some designers know what to do with the past and are capable of communicating something about the contemporary times with all that vintage affection. Alessandro Michele is one of them. He believes that in order to understand the present and have an idea of the future, you must know the past. His sophomore Valentino collection might look clunky and unedited at first, but when you a look at it again, you see how telling it is about what’s the state of fashion is in 2025. Overstimulation. Oversaturation. Overpoweredness. Michele’s models of all ages walked to the tune of Lana Del Rey’s “Gods & Monsters” in their embellished dresses, so-tacky-it’s-good satins and genderless lace, certainly not knowing where they are headed to. The vibe was kind of apocalyptic, but since we’re still alive, why not be all glammed up? One of the closing looks – a stuffy, fur-trimmed cardigan worn over a black velvet dress and styled with pony-hair boots tied with a bow – looked so odd and so out of place you just can’t help but feel… intrigued.

While doing market research in Paris I also noticed how high quality Michele’s Valentino really is. These clothes are done with such care and precision that they will look as good as now in 20, 30 years. Just like vintage that we love and wear today, being decades old. The quality of clothes used to be better in the past, and Michele learns a lesson from that. The designer’s autumn-winter 2025 collection stuns with craftsmanship too – even if it’s sometimes so layered up you can barely see it.

ED’s DISPATCH:

Valentino Garavani Polka-dot Silk Head Scarf

Valentino Garavani Lace-trimmed Ruffled Polka-dot Silk-chiffon Blouse

Valentino Garavani Polka-dot Silk-crepe Wide-leg Pants

Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Polka-dot Silk-shantung Jacket

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Leather Pumps

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity is Fun. Miu Miu AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miu Miu was delicious. Delightful! This season, Miuccia Prada mused about the accessories of femininity – bras, furs, brooches. Are they relevant today? Do they lift up? At her reductionist Prada collection, she seemed to turn her back to anything superfluous. But at Miu Miu, the frivolous, younger sister, she seemed to fully indulge in all the “feminine” ornaments that in the end of the day bring utmost pleasure. With a cast consisting of Sarah Paulson and Lou Doillon, and Lotta Volkova’s phenomenal styling, the collection remixed different decades that shaped what’s affiliated as feminine today. 1920s flapper silhouettes accented with very-retro caps. 1950s knee length satin lingerie dresses (with the bra peaking out!). 1980s uptown power-looks, smoothed around the edges and completed with Deeda Blair’s hairstyle. It might sound like a lot, but the overall effect was absolutely Miu Miu. And it reminded us that fashion can be truly, truly fun to play around with.

ED’s SELECTION:

Miu Miu Short-Sleeve Cashmere Sweater

Miu Miu Intarsia Logo Cashmere Briefs

Miu Miu Leather Lace-Up Moccasins

Miu Miu Shearling Collar Oversized Jacket

Miu Miu Rose Print Knee Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Miserable. Balenciaga AW25

March 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Give us nothing” energy was delivered by Demna at Balenciaga. Unlike at Prada and The Row, here, the effect was absolutely depressing. I get that the Parisian crowds might find the radical mediocrity of purposely badly-cut men’s suits and shirts amusing, but for a person living in Poland, this is very triggering to see. It’s literally what you get on the streets during Women’s Day when all the guys buy their girls that one little rose, once in a year. Demna even had this infamous, sad-macho “archetype” in the show. Another nightmare: the ridiculously bad duvet jackets that you can get at any East-European bazaar. They were here, too, in different unflattering lengths. Don’t get me started with the tight polo shirts and the Puma collab. I get the irony and I’ve always enjoyed Demna’s mind – and sense of humor. But something is certainly off about his latest runway collections – and this one screamed “crisis”.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femme. Chloé AW25

March 10, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh to be a Chloé girl in the Chloé world. Undone hair and blushing, au naturel. In her floor-sweeping silk skirt (she doesn’t care whether it gets wet in a Parisian puddle) and embroidered, satin jacket that looks like an antique find at Paul Bert Serpette. Chemena Kamali envisions her woman (or rather an eternal girl) through a nostalgia-tinged lens, frivolously mixing various Chloé references across decades: Lagerfeldian dolman-sleeved blouses, McCartney’s feminine sense of fun, Philo’s Paddington bag (it’s so back). There’s also a sense of naughty decadence about that femme: the scarves with fluffy pompoms caused a stir on social media, accidentally (or not) sparking the world-old debate: to fur or not to fur? The autumn-winter 2025 had an unexpected shift: from soft-focus romantic boho girl (but done in the 2000s London it-girl way) to the shoulder-padded and miniskirted power-look of early ’80s. “In a way, a woman’s wardrobe evolves naturally over time. It’s uncurated. You buy things throughout time, you collect them, keep them, give them away, sometimes you rediscover them.” A valid point made.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Luna Cutout Leather Ballet Flats

Chloé Ruffled Silk-georgette Blouse

Chloé Bracelet Embellished Textured-leather Shoulder Bag

Chloé Cropped Leopard-print Cotton-velvet Straight-leg Pants

Chloé Kick Suede And Leather-trimmed Mesh Sneakers

Chloé Oversized Belted Shearling-trimmed Leather Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The Ethos. Dries Van Noten AW25

March 10, 2025March 10, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julian Klausner‘s debut runway collection for Dries Van Noten felt familiar – in a good way. It largely did feel like a Dries collection, maybe except for the tasseled jacket and evening dress near the show’s finale. The meaty, chunky knits, beautifully layered tailoring and omnipresent play with sumptuous textures made this line-up feel like an ode to the founder of the brand – and his very, very loyal clients who went through a spiritual crisis once the designer announced his departure. Klausner isn’t planning to erase the Dries Van Noten ethos, but prolong it. The broad-shouldered coat in transfixing cardinal purple or the stunning, fluid-like dress with a green velvet bow at the neck are the best proves for his great intentions.