What’s Gucci Today? Gucci AW25

February 27, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gucci‘s autumn-winter 2025 collection begs a question: do big brands need creative directors? Look at Loro Piana – it’s lead by a largely anonymous design studio, and it’s selling like hot buns. Their clients really don’t care about who’s designing what: it’s the quality that matters – and the overall image of the brand. After Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci – and his very plain, very mild tenure – the brand is facing identity crisis. Should it go maximalist à la Alessandro Michele? Should it revert back to Tom Ford’s minimalist sensuality? Should it tap Hedi Slimane or an under-the-radar-name? At the moment, there’s no right answer. Even though the line-up that opened Milan Fashion Week wasn’t bad (it was way better than anything De Sarno presented), it left you with an impression of incompleteness. If not for Suzanne Koller’s masterful styling, the trendy-looking color palette, a bunch of faux-fur coats and silk slip dresses had little to say.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Naughty Boys. DsQuared2 AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday in Milan, Dean & Dan Caten celebrated 30 years of DsQuared2: three decades of naughty bravado, sultry hedonism and campy glamour. Their autumn-winter 2025 fashion show, which had everything from a Doechii performance to Naomi Campbell finale walk, was a glorious look-back at the Canadian brothers’ all-time favorite runway characters. There were cowboys, lumberjacks, bombshells, BDSM aficionados, high-octane starlets. It all ended with Brigitte Nielsen dressed as a police officer, arresting the Catens – who, dapper in tuxedos and towering platforms, broke free from their cuffs, kicking off a raucous after-party. Fun fact: the Dsquared2 line-up included collaborations with Magliano, Vaquera, and Bettter, all of whom were welcomed into the Catens’ archives to rework past designs. The brothers still know what’s up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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No-Nonsense. Talia Byre AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re looking for an absolutely great emerging brand in London, here’s a clue: it’s Talia Byre and her no-nonsense take on what IRL women want. Stunningly cut shirts that borrowed from traditional menswear silhouettes (in checks and stripes); a nylon skirt with girlish sectioned pleats; charming, wool knitwear in vibrant shades of canary-yellow and sweet-lilac. What’s not to love?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Raw Femininity. Simone Rocha AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha channeled a tougher, rawer perspective on femininity, one close to her – and her 15 year old brand’s – heart. Faux-fur coats were sliced to ribbons halfway up from their hemlines, a gesture repeated across the collection, giving an animalistic, primary touch (and not-so-obvious sensuality). Jackets and skirts in Rocha’s tinsel-strafed bouclé tweed were also given the shredder treatment. The designer combined harnessing with lingerie, ruffles with chains, creating garments beaming with attitude.

That attitude was embodied by a cast of non-models, like the sensational actress Fiona Shaw who wore a duchesse-satin black gown. Rocha has been inviting characters of different walks of life to her runways for years; Burberry was certainly inspired this season by her always-working strategy of making clothes feel truly real.

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Faux-fur Pumps

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Organza Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Tulle Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Cropped Bow-embellished Open-knit Mohair-blend Cardigan

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Silver-tone Hair Clip

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Dolls. Conner Ives AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This one’s for all the dolls. Conner Ives presented his ultra-glamorous offering of eveningwear at Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, and one can easily imagine women strutting and striding in those fur-tripped numbers or Art Deco-ish piano-dresses during the night. The plum number with deep, plunging neckline was accessorized with fringe-y headwear made out of bottle caps, making it all feel not overly serious. That’s exactly Conner Ives’ sense of style: tongue-in-cheek-chic. The line-up emanated with a certain whimsy-but-cool, sexy-but-with-a-twist femininity, reminiscing Stella McCartney’s days at Chloé. Brits know how to have fun.