Decadence. Magliano AW26

January 25, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Luca Magliano’s move from Milan to Paris provided the French capital with a much-needed counterweight to this season’s near-perfect menswear consensus, dominated by ideas of “good taste” and proper style. Magliano has always sought beauty in chaos and imperfection, and that ethos remained central. What the designer has long described as an “elegance of the provinces” – a defining signature of the brand – was reimagined here beyond geography, recast as a state of mind, a posture, and a way of seeing fashion.

The collection was rooted in Magliano’s characteristically slouchy tailoring but brought to life through gesture and movement. One of its guiding impulses was the desire to arrest cinematic motion within the garment itself: coats sliced with organza at face level that, when worn, looked unfamiliar, yet absolutely real. This tension between structure and fluidity embodied what Magliano has described as tailoring at its most romantic. His ongoing method of softening formality for those uneasy with it remained intact, as did the brand’s enduring proposition: classic, yet unapologetically queer.

Beyond delivering one of the strongest menswear collections of the autumn–winter 2026 season, the Italian designer also presented one of its most compelling castings, assembling a diverse array of real faces to model his patinated, decadently chic garments.

ED’s SELECTION:

Magliano Men’s Pinstripe Wool-Blend Two-Button Jacket

Magliano Men’s Lyocell Peoples Pleated Wide-Leg Pants

Magliano Men’s Lungomare Double-Breasted Overcoat

Magliano Men’s Signature Wool Double-Pleat Pants

Magliano Men’s Graphic-Print Long-Sleeve Button-Front Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Black Hole. Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus AW26

January 25, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Not that Rei Kawakubo needs any introduction, but her name has been louder than usual this fashion week. Jonathan Anderson’s incredible sophomore men’s collection for Dior took many cues from Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, especially in its distorted, tweaked tailoring – pure Rei at its core. And the collection she presented yesterday was nothing short of powerful. Kept strictly in black and white, it was beautifully solemn and somewhat disturbing (the Hannibal Lecter masks and demonic wigs!). The way she shredded lace and tweed for her jackets is beyond words; the flower-imitating knots and draped coats are as poetic as ever. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Comme Des Garçons Flap Pocket Wool-Blend Blazer

Comme Des Garçons x PHILEO Melted Derby Shoes

Comme Des Garçons Checked Wool Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Unpressed. Auralee AW26

January 25, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

For a more restrained vision of masculinity, lets turn to the Japanese label Auralee. Ryota Iwai, together with the talented stylist and art director Charlotte Collet, is clearly hot on the heels of Parisian minimalists such as Christophe Lemaire. Yet he has no interest in rehashing what’s “good taste.” Quite the opposite: he pairs colors that supposedly shouldn’t go together, deliberately disrupts proportions, and leaves both suits and jeans unpressed. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Auralee Men’s Blouson Tweed Zip Jacket

Auralee Men’s Baby Suri Alpaca Sheer Knit Crewneck Sweater

Auralee Men’s Wool Straight-Leg Trousers

Auralee Men’s Wool Knit Shirt Cardigan

Auralee Men’s Short-Sleeve Cotton T-Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Coming Of Age. Dries Van Noten AW26

January 24, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julian Klausner delivered his strongest solo outing at Dries Van Noten to date. The autumn–winter 2026 menswear collection radiates the youthful spirit of student days, when anything seems possible: drifting from one party to the next, cramming for exams at the last minute, and handing in papers a day past the deadline. The naturally cool spontaneity of a vintage-inspired striped sweater paired with a kilt, a hilariously kooky chullo-like beanie, and lace-ups with thick socks peeking out is intoxicatingly inspiring. So, too, is the campus-inflected layering: oversized capes worn over prim, uniform-like tailoring and neatly knotted neckties.

Yet this was not a collection about preppiness. I found it beautifully folkloric instead. Nordic knitwear patterns clashed with subtly faded, sensational Polaroid-like florals on satin trousers and raincoats. These are life-affirming clothes – and styling cues – that make you feel young again, no face-lift required.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Double-breasted Embellished Striped Wool And Linen-blend Coat

Dries Van Noten Nylon and Leather Low-Top Sneakers

Dries Van Noteb Pine Straight-Fit Flocked Denim Jeans

Dries Van Noten Hen Oversized Graphic T-Shirt

Dries Van Noten Velen Embellished Jacket

Dries Van Noten Rock The Myrrh Eau de Parfum

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Radical Uniform. Rick Owens AW26

January 23, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens’s latest collection? Hard as ice-cold metal, raw as Kim Gordon’s newest song, emotionally explosive like a Lynne Ramsay film – yet, at the same time, utterly and devastatingly beautiful. This season, the designer was invested in the idea of uniforms: they command presence and provoke threat, but once mocked, they can easily tip into something almost hilarious. It was therefore intriguing to see how Owens reimagined hyper-masculine utilitarianism within his twisted universe, where darkness functions as the true source of light.

The athletic models appeared even more otherworldly in elongated, skin-tight silhouettes, ornamented with floor-sweeping tentacles, razor-sharp shoulder pads, and origami-like constructions that quite literally enveloped the wearer. Color-washed, cropped gothic cashmere coats took on a grunge edge when paired with stone-washed pants, while Rick’s signature high-platform boots pushed each look into even more extreme, radical territory. It’s a tough world out there, and Owens designs clothes that protect you – physically and mentally – from the harsh detriments of reality.