I guess many designers, hearing the word ‘ballet’, would go for all shades of pastel pink, do fancy layers of tulle, or keep it ‘sensual’, yet coldly strict. Jonny Johansson, the mind behind Acne Studios, proved in his spring-summer 2019 collection that when fashion collides with ballet, the result doesn’t have to be one of those well-known clichés: or your average, pretty ballerina girl, or that kind of cigarette smoking, drowning in beige lady who’s in fact a ballet teacher. There was something of the incredibly colourful Ballets Russes and their distinct vibrancy; maybe, it’s Edgar Dégas’s Petite Danseuse gone very modern, wearing flip-flops and sneakers after the rehearsals in some other dimension; or maybe, the ballet mood got conveyed so smoothly thanks to the placement of Merce Cunningham posters on t-shirts and jackets. Well, whatever the secret is, Johansson captured the energy, the strength and the beauty of ballet in a very profound way. Also, I adored the way he divided the collection into four ballerina ‘stages’: rehearsal, onstage, off-duty, and evening. From flowing pleated skirts and bodysuits to tracksuits and tuxedos, it might be a wardrobe of a ballet dancer – but don’t take it too literal, as it all looks so approachable and realistic.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
I can’t believe myself – it’s the last post about the SS16 fashion month! And even though I am kind of sad that the spring-summer 2016 season came to an end, it feels like a perfect time to chill and look back at all the fashion moments that took place in September and at the beginning of October. The marathon of New York, London, Milan and Paris delivered so many gorgeous, amusing, shocking and effy collections, that it’s the perfect time to take a short break and reflect. However, there is never too much of Miu Miu – Miuccia Prada absolutely astonished me this time. The new collection is a bit confusing, but very appealing. The ugliness of the ballerina shoes with Comme des Garcons-like belt buckles and vichy checks are a loud nod to the beauty of ballet and its bad sides. Miuccia gave as some tulle skirts, too, keeping Miu Miu’s spirit girlie, but with a twist. The ruffled, organza aprons in courgette purple, mint green and cherry red looked provoking, when worn with the loosely fit pencil skirts. A Miu Miu collection is not a Miu Miu collection without eclectic wallpaper prints and fur stoles, which appeared to be worn extravagantly around the chest. I also loved the fur “tails” which dangled under the leather jackets and layered shirts. Feminine edginess wins the label this season, saying sweetly “I wear what I want, so don’t bother me“. A great collection that ends another nutritious season!
Rudolf Nureyev was a famous Russian ballet dancer, which through talent explored expressive areas of the dance, providing a new role to the male ballet dancer who once served only as support to the women. Most of his life, Rudolf spent in Paris, continuing to be a star in his proffesion and also in fashion/art world. His famous “open-chest” style and friendship with artists like Andy Warhol made him a fashion icon and also a legend. And who from all the designers opened up on him? Dries Van Noten. That was the strongest collection ever from Dries in men’s fashion. It’s ballet dancer beauty and calmness was the best thing I saw during the whole fashion week in Paris, and overall. “I’d had enough of rock and a cool attitude,” he said post-show. “It was time for something completely different. I wanted a sensual man.” In the service of whom, he showed bared torsos, scooped necks, blousy shirts, and baggy shorts. Before creating the clothes, Van Noten studied the ballet costumes: learning about bodies sitting, standing, and in motion. That’s from where the harness elements came from, covering shoulders and giving a fetishistic flourish. If talking ballet, these clothes are perfection. Talking everyday- maybe not everything (for example the torsos or African embroidered vests) but this collection is going to have it’s own clientele. I am really interested in it, just like I’ve got interested in Nureyev.
The Saint Laurent dance films introduce their launch of new ballet pumps range presented by models Lida Fox and Gracie Van Gastel. The films are tradionally, (as everything that is Saint Laurent by Hedi) filmed and directed in black and white style by Mr. Hedi Slimane, the creative director of the Parisian label. Indeed, the films are not like the AW13 collection- ful of grunge and in Courtney Love style. The movies are just… beautiful!
COLETTE on Rue du Saint Honore
Colette is a highlight for every fashionista in Paris. Labels like Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Kenzo, Celine and Christopher Kane got their place here together with dozens of great magazines, music and things you need to love! I’m totally a fan of this fantastic place. First you can find here great people, then find great pieces of clothes (I found two great things), Coca-Cola by Marc Jacobs (got it!) or CR Fashion Book and I-D (of course I do have it!).
CELINE on Avenue Montaigne next to l’Avenue restaurant
A real fur land for this season! These shoes are fantastic even if they are ugly! In various colours, as sandal or heels, they do have their horrible price! As I talked with the Celine person, the most popular are the black fur sandals. The heels are just scarrying because of the price! I truly fell in love with the dresses with net on them- so sexy and modern!
DIOR on Avenue Montaigne
What can I say. The clothes are just a clean elegance and beauty- but the shop? Ok. The shop is also beautiful, but it’s not Raf Simons but still Galliano. The clothes and atmosphere are biting each other. Thanks god they changed the service because it was horrible last time I was in Paris! The dresses are breath taking. So delicate and fragile! But the shoes were unfortunately a disapoinment. Looked kitch and cheap. This rhymes eve
BALENCIAGA on Rue Victor Hugo and Saint Honore
That was a big pleasure to see unfortunately the last time designs by Nicolas Ghesquiere. His designs are so lite and flowless! The shoes with cubic heel are just the hottest thing this season and I loved the bags! Small and practical, looked like boxes! Fromclothes there was only the resort collection… So no ruffled dresses and skirts inspired with ballet Bolero.
LOUIS VUITTON on Avenue Montaigne
The square power! The welcome sign that it’s all LV, were the squares on windows! Inside the first thing I see are the beautiful dresses full of yellow squares. The shoes with a pointy nose are very 60’s and at the same time modern. They were in two types- with md heel and a high heel- but I liked more the mid one.
I think Riccardo Tisci really got a rotweiller in his ass (in a good way of course)! Tisci is the creative director of Givenchy and is one of the most influencial menswear and womenswear designer from Paris. He is known for prints (Rottweiler, flowers, Madonna, Jesus, etc.) and street inspired clothing. And it’s not the end. He had his two whole interviews and editorials in Self Service and GQ (the one I’m showing is from Self Service), will design ballerina costumes for Bolero in one of the most known Parisian opera, makes friends with Kanye West and Jay-Z and if like it wasn’t enough, he created amazing scene costumes for Rihanna’s Diamond Tour. Crazy, isn’t it?
In the Self Service editorial Tisci is in his Atelier Givenchy “house” in Paris (it’s on Avenue George V, the building is next to Balenciaga boutique) siting on black sofa with his favourite model Joan Smalls and his friends from the runways. Of course every one wears pre-fall 2013 collection. And here I’ve got some backsatge pics from recent Givenchy show- full of grunge, romantic vibes, prints and Givenchy spirit. I personally loved the collection! It is the real Parisienne chic!