I guess many designers, hearing the word ‘ballet’, would go for all shades of pastel pink, do fancy layers of tulle, or keep it ‘sensual’, yet coldly strict. Jonny Johansson, the mind behind Acne Studios, proved in his spring-summer 2019 collection that when fashion collides with ballet, the result doesn’t have to be one of those well-known clichés: or your average, pretty ballerina girl, or that kind of cigarette smoking, drowning in beige lady who’s in fact a ballet teacher. There was something of the incredibly colourful Ballets Russes and their distinct vibrancy; maybe, it’s Edgar Dégas’s Petite Danseuse gone very modern, wearing flip-flops and sneakers after the rehearsals in some other dimension; or maybe, the ballet mood got conveyed so smoothly thanks to the placement of Merce Cunningham posters on t-shirts and jackets. Well, whatever the secret is, Johansson captured the energy, the strength and the beauty of ballet in a very profound way. Also, I adored the way he divided the collection into four ballerina ‘stages’: rehearsal, onstage, off-duty, and evening. From flowing pleated skirts and bodysuits to tracksuits and tuxedos, it might be a wardrobe of a ballet dancer – but don’t take it too literal, as it all looks so approachable and realistic.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
I can’t believe myself – it’s the last post about the SS16 fashion month! And even though I am kind of sad that the spring-summer 2016 season came to an end, it feels like a perfect time to chill and look back at all the fashion moments that took place in September and at the beginning of October. The marathon of New York, London, Milan and Paris delivered so many gorgeous, amusing, shocking and effy collections, that it’s the perfect time to take a short break and reflect. However, there is never too much of Miu Miu – Miuccia Prada absolutely astonished me this time. The new collection is a bit confusing, but very appealing. The ugliness of the ballerina shoes with Comme des Garcons-like belt buckles and vichy checks are a loud nod to the beauty of ballet and its bad sides. Miuccia gave as some tulle skirts, too, keeping Miu Miu’s spirit girlie, but with a twist. The ruffled, organza aprons in courgette purple, mint green and cherry red looked provoking, when worn with the loosely fit pencil skirts. A Miu Miu collection is not a Miu Miu collection without eclectic wallpaper prints and fur stoles, which appeared to be worn extravagantly around the chest. I also loved the fur “tails” which dangled under the leather jackets and layered shirts. Feminine edginess wins the label this season, saying sweetly “I wear what I want, so don’t bother me“. A great collection that ends another nutritious season!
Rudolf Nureyev was a famous Russian ballet dancer, which through talent explored expressive areas of the dance, providing a new role to the male ballet dancer who once served only as support to the women. Most of his life, Rudolf spent in Paris, continuing to be a star in his proffesion and also in fashion/art world. His famous “open-chest” style and friendship with artists like Andy Warhol made him a fashion icon and also a legend. And who from all the designers opened up on him? Dries Van Noten. That was the strongest collection ever from Dries in men’s fashion. It’s ballet dancer beauty and calmness was the best thing I saw during the whole fashion week in Paris, and overall. “I’d had enough of rock and a cool attitude,” he said post-show. “It was time for something completely different. I wanted a sensual man.” In the service of whom, he showed bared torsos, scooped necks, blousy shirts, and baggy shorts. Before creating the clothes, Van Noten studied the ballet costumes: learning about bodies sitting, standing, and in motion. That’s from where the harness elements came from, covering shoulders and giving a fetishistic flourish. If talking ballet, these clothes are perfection. Talking everyday- maybe not everything (for example the torsos or African embroidered vests) but this collection is going to have it’s own clientele. I am really interested in it, just like I’ve got interested in Nureyev.