Spanish Lesson. Louis Vuitton Resort 2025

Twelve years ago, in his final show for Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière referenced Spanish culture with finesse and grace by revisiting the famous, stiff ruffles from a Cristobal Balenciaga dress circa 1968. This was one of the greatest Ghesquière collections ever, and an absolute sublimation of his tenure at the brand. In 2024, the designer returns to Spain again, physically, and with Louis Vuitton. The Hypostyle Room of Antoni Gaudi’s Park Güell in Barcelona was a fitting background for Nicolas’ off-kilter take on Velazquez, Goya, as well as the legendary filmmaker Luis Bunuel – even though the results felt a bit heavy-handed (which was never the case at his Balenciaga). The resort 2025 collection began with a parade of tailored, mostly neutral looks, all worn with straw gaucho hats and mirrored racing shades. Ghesquière said that the first exits were modeled on the sailor’s traditional vareuse – note their wide collars – but their broad shoulders and upside-down triangle shapes borrowed equally from the 1980s silhouettes of his youth. By the end, though, the strictness of his jupe tailleurs and coat dresses was replaced by the voluptuous drape of silk skirts and trousers, their chiaroscuro folds of silk nodding in the direction of the Spanish masters he referred to. The white cloak made you immediately think of the architectural habits of priests captured by Francisco de Zurbaran. Meanwhile, pops of polka dots and ruffles nodded more to the culture of flamenco, than Balenciaga’s heritage. When Ghesquière comes to work, he delivers collections that have all these Easter eggs to decipher.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

ONRUSHW23FH

ONRUSHW23FH, the Barcelona-based label created by Albert Sánchez and Sebastián Cameras, advocates an experimental and high-quality design, aimed at a versatile audience that has an interest in in the boundary-less field of art and design. The brand reached out to me with their latest collection, and it’s truly worth sharing. Seldom do people in fashion come across concepts such as the ones developed by the sociologist Zygmunt Bauman, where liquid society and immediacy are implied – and the “Almost There” 2021 collection has its roots in those ideas. “The collection is based around the concept of celerity that as individuals it marks us and induces us to a certain self-demand, creating a distorted reality resulting in an intangible objective. From this point on, we reduce this utopia and disfigured scenario to the most visual and uncomplicated image of “arriving late” in our everyday life“, the designers explain. The garments have undergone through a complex process by mixing 3D prototypes of toile on the mannequin, looking for a rich visual imagery of immediacy starting from details such as someone waking up, a sort of “misplacement of a garment“, caused by chaos of being late and the process of arriving at the destination at any cost. One of the most significant resources in being able to achieve the effect of immediacy is either accomplished visually, as it would be in the case of a twisted or superimposed garment created as a result of the speed from the action that has been carried out, as well as the introduction of more rigid, but transformable structural figures which illustrate the agility that specific objects can provide, thus being the ones that give closure to the meaning of the collection. The collection features atemporal and gender-unspecific silhouettes where garments are completely displaced from their centres. For instance, gabardines in which the neck becomes the armhole; or shirts and trousers, presented with the components that construct them completely twisted. Concepts such as “nomadic couture” are used, enlighting compositions in which the traditional purpose of each garment shifts, as a case in point a blazer built into a skirt or a trench-coat as a dress. Simultaneously, “layering” as a resource plays a leading role not only in the creation of silhouettes but also on the illusion of superimposition of trousers or tank tops, resulting in a “trompe l’oeil” that deceives the eye and makes it unclear whether it is a single garment or a set juxtapositioned pieces. Clothes, which are food for thought, but as well look simply cool.

Discover the brand here.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Nathalie Schreckenberg

AvaEarring

Nathalie Schreckenberg is a German-Brazilian jewelry designer, who’s currently based in Barcelona. With her background in fine arts, Nathalie started a line of handcrafted earrings, rings, bracelets and pendants that might resemble sculptures of such artists as Jean Arp or Alexander Calder to some. With one exception – those pieces are totally wearable.

Schreckenberg’s brand DNA retains a raw, organic feeling to each of those precious, yet minimal treasures. Silver, natural gems and pearls are molded into ergonomic jewels that adapt comfortably to the body. Each piece reflects manual processes, connecting with the wearer – think of them as of ancient amulets for our times.

Discover the designer’s gorgeous lookbook presenting her second collection, photographed by Adrián Catalán, below.