The newest Acne Studios collection for pre-fall 2016 is a perfect set of looks, which defines the current fashion obsession – so the raw girl, who is wearing her favourite, yet slightly dilapidated knitted cardigan, cowboy boots from a Los Angeles thrift shop (Gilda Ambrosio style, of course) and a satin slip dress, but in a very party-hard way. The grunge edginess of this Parisian outing is softened with toned and warm autumn colours of curcuma and dove grey, while the focus on knitwear (this green, super-long scarf looks perfect for a lazy, September day) felt like a fresh gust of air for the brand. If talking of the textures, one of the coats is a real, one-of-a-kind piece – the tartan check has a kind of an arty, hybrid contrast on the waist-line. The contemporary usage of velvet as a bra-piece of a slip-dress looks both dramatic and flawless with a delicate shawl tied around the neck of the model. Jonny Johansson, this collection is a BOMB.
Only Lovers Left Alive is one of my favourite movies, ever – vampy Tilda Swinton, elusive Detroit and the beautiful story of two, pale-faced lovers always makes me have goosebumps. So when I saw the first looks from Kate and Laura Mulleavy‘s Rodarte SS16 outing, I was mesmerised. I am absolutely share, that New York’s favourite sister duo had this movie on their mood-board. The collection had a fancy, psychedelic approach towards romantic dresses. This signature, Rodarte-ish romance is not shallow – it is like poetry. You need to interpret it the way you want. The designers spent the summer immersing themselves in Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson, and Leonard Cohen, while listening to Electric Light Orchestra’s early synthesized, sparkly music. The collection also had something of Old Hollywood – the gowns were made of collages of lace, velvet, embroidery, beading, and silk fringing, cut into Victoriana bodices and ethereal, floor sweeping lenghts. To complete all that lavish heaven, Rodarte introduced their gorgeous, Art Deco inspired boots. The effect? With black fish-net tights, this collection felt authentic and nostalgic, but in a good sense.
Not only Rosie Assoulin brought the sun to our lives through her collection. Altuzarra‘s spring-summer 2016 is basically a fantasy of vacations in Tuscany, with Italian wine and beautiful sunsets over the vineyards. Joseph Altuzarra always keeps the femme-fatale attitude (the unbuttoned shirt, flesh exposing skirts), but this time his woman was much more relaxed. Flawless dresses were kept in warm colours of ombre, orange and emerald-green. Intricate embellishments adorned peekaboo pencil skirts and slouchy, cotton blazers felt perfect for breezy evenings. The accessories game for Altuzarra is strong – by expanding his brand, the bags and shoes look even better and better each season – the bags with leather tassels are the instant must-haves. And the heels with espadrille finishes perfectly matched this laid-back collection.
Malwina Konopacka is one of the most promising new-gen talents coming from Poland. She has her own, precise vision of design and art. Or rather, a fresh combination of these two. JUNGLE is the name of new, limited edition of hand-painted ceramic vases made by the Warsaw-based illustrator and designer . The series consists of 20 individual leaf-motif vases, including 2 inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, and 10 designs with gold elements. The artist continues to explore form, function and pattern, as she initiated with the first series of vases called OKO (The Eye), presented in 2014 (more here). But what makes me really proud as a Pole, is the fact, that Malwina and many other Polish designers will have their major exhibition at EXPO 2015 in Milan!
The JUNGLE collection will be presented at “The Polish Table. La Tavola Polacca” exhibition in the Polish Pavilion at EXPO 2015 in Milan between 13 – 27 September 2015.
Photography by Paulina Pajka
Azzedine Alaia always surrounded himself with unconventional beauties – from Linda Evangelista to Iman, the list in long. But the new muse and role-model of Alaia is the truly mesmerising, short-hair-cut American model Ava McAvoy. In the new campaign of AW15 collection, Ava poses for Karim Sadli and is being styled by one and only Joe McKenna – the photographs (only two are officially “leaked”) are sharp and perfectly reflect the sexy and very Parisian attitude of Alaia!
You can discover truly inspiring people on Instagram and Cara Marie Piazza is the best example of that. She lives and produces in New York as a textile designer and natural dyer. Cara creates one-of-a-kind textiles only using natural dye stuffs such as botanicals, plant matter, minerals, non-toxic metals and food wastes. She treats her fabrics through alchemical dye sessions, ancient shibori techniques and bundle dyeing, transforming each textile into its very own story. The designer creates custom Kimonos for private clients (which look stunning, just check our her Insta-feed!). But also you could have seen her touch at New York’s hottest fashion labels like Eckhaus Latta or Alice Waese. Watch out for this girl.
@caramariepiazza / caramarienyc.com
Photography by Arden Wray
A piece of jewellery by her seems to be like a spiral which shapes around the body. Do you remember the set of five golden rings from Nicolas Ghesquière’s final collection for Balenciaga? Did you add them to the on-line store whishlist because you were so in love with them? Well, in reality, you were in love with Charlotte Chesnais already back then. Spending nearly a decade at the house, she appeared to be the main jewellery designer there by coincidence. “Nicolas wanted some pieces for his Les Parisiennes collection, and there was no one at the time doing jewelry in the atelier,” Chesnais recalls. She left Balenciaga just after Ghesquière did. “I had lost my master,” she explains, but not before debuting the “bow” bracelets that have since become an Alexander Wang signature. Later on, Chesnais worked for Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne (the last season bracelets are also by HER) and designed the chain mail bags. And now, Charlotte Chesnais is here to present herself in the truest form, with her own namesake line. Inspired by the sculptural work of Constantin Brancusi and Alberto Giacometti, her eponymous collection is composed of metal pieces that look as if made of liquid – cuffs coil up the hand; circular earrings orbit the lobes. “Each one is a beautiful object—even just sitting on a table,” she says. “That’s my interpretation of timeless.”
Whenever I visit Mitte district in Berlin, I always see something new. This time, I accidentally visited the best boutique with finely selected vintage I have ever been to. Every corner in Fragment is unique and so original… from vintage Celine to Yves Saint Laurent, the owners constantly change the interior through presenting exhibitions with international artists. And also, it is a space which welcomes emerging fashion designers. Although I am not a major fan of vintage, this place convinced me to try it out!
Almstadstraße 5 / Berlin
The last fourrure was presented 90 years ago. Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi, showed the world what is the definite fur splendor. As the name fourrure might suggest, it is a haute couture collection which is utterly focused on… fur. Chinchilla, sable and mink were presented in form of long, floor-weeping coats, flesh explosing jumpsuit and amazingly detailed sweaters – and these were not only interesting because of the fact they were made from a fusion of cashmere and fluff, but because they were embellished with huge flowers, of course shaped from fur. The cape worn by Julia Nobis at the end of the show may have been all about feathers “transforming” into a silver-tipped skirt, which set our minds on a cross-species category search. PETA was set at bay during the fashion show – and all your furry fantasies became real.