Patti on Ann

October 18, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Shadows fell on the girl who had recorded Horses. At a time of deep loneliness she received a package from Antwerp—an exquisite white box tied with black ribbon—like a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. She set it on her worktable by the window, laid the ribbons aside, and raised the lid. There, beneath layers of immaculate tissue, were three white shirts. She unfolded and spread them in the light, examining every stitch. I understood that I was not alone. When at long last I stepped back upon the stage, the girl of Flanders brushed the dust from my shoulder, adjusted my collar, and laced my boots.

Patti Smith on Ann Demeulemeester.

In the Stars

October 14, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Something a little offbeat always happens in Mona Kowalska’s A Détacher collection. And it’s a welcome weirdness. A few days before her Spring show, Kowalska spoke about an Italo Calvino quote that resonated with her: “‘Childhood boredom is a special kind of boredom.’ It leads to this world of fantasy, daydreams, and innocent fun,” said Kowalska. But my favourite thing about the show was the make-up. Tiny, shiny stars were sticked to model’s chins, creative a naive, infantile mood. This one might really cheer up your day!

Understated Luxury. Hermes SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was the last season of Christophe Lemaire at Hermes- and surely, it really was worth an applause. The understated luxury, traveler chic and the elegant style is everything that Lemaire achieved at Hermes and continues in his own, name-sake, brand. Cream and white layers in alligator printed suede, oversized Hermès prints blown up on belted in scarf dresses and loose silken separates in dusky pink and golden yellow all summed up the sense of freeing ease that Lemaire imbued on the house. These clothes don’t need bells and whistles and neither does the house when you have an arsenal of fine fabrications. But who is next at Hermes? It’s Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, which comes to the house with experience from The Row and Celine. In other words, it’s surely going to be a match in heaven. However I will still miss Christophe Lemaire at this French, super strong house.

By the way… it’s the last “reviewed” collection from SS15 by me. This season was beautiful. Can’t wait what the designers will show in the next half of the year!

Japan Noir. Alexander McQueen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen brings new mood to the brand- Japan and it’s more sensual, darker site. So what we saw? Leather kimono coats with embroidered florals; super high shoes without heels (you know, Daphne Guiness); the models walked with faces encircled in black lacquer frames, courtesy of the ingenious makeup-ist Pat McGrath; everything was tightly belt-up and strengthen up with harness bustiers. So now wonder why Sarah thought of Japan this season. After he travel to this beautiful country full of cherry-blossom trees and traditional Ryokan houses, she created a sexy, but mindful collection. There was a maniacal attention to detail in the pearls that seeded the flowers on a skirt of ruffled chiffon, but it would be pleasing to think that this collection represented a new perspective for Burton. At least the history here was truly personal—or as personal as that grab bag of her souvenirs from her Japanese trips. And the face-off between geisha and samurai would seem like the very embodiment of the savage beauty that nestles at the dark heart of Alexander McQueen.

Science Chic. Iris Van Herpen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Iris Van Herpen is known for her scientific approach towards fashion. For summer, the designer was inspired with magnets- the name of the collection Magnetic Motion, which matches perfectly. A visit to the Large Handron Collider in CERN, Switzerland was for Iris the thing. There, where the atoms are divided in two, Van Herpen learnt how to “connect”. She applied the idea to manipulating the building blocks of the collection at times—for example, the shoes were “grown” with magnets and a fixative applied, each one slightly different. The pièce de résistance “halo” silhouettes at the end of the show were the physical embodiment in silicone of invisible magnetic forces. These were perfected by the Canadian architect Philip Beesley, one of Van Herpen’s frequent collaborators, who was joined this time by the Dutch artist Jólan van der Wiel.  And all of that super high-technology applied on a simple, black dress or a tunic. You must admit- the effect is ground-shaking.