Mid-century Polish composer Wojciech Kilar was a distinct departure from Owens’ usual visceral electronic noise. Still, he anchored his models to earth with clogs that clacked noisily around the catwalk. Ghost-models, fauns, normal women- all of them clashed in this romantic, but brutal collection. It was a mix of everything Owens did up to date- Luigi Murenu hair-bushed, panel tafetas, black leather, sculptural silhouettes… although there were many cuts and legs to be seen, it all felt attractive through a dark prism. The ortopedic geisha clogs felt also very dramatic. The Ballets Russes, the early 20th century’s most spectacular rejection of the cultural status quo, was his starting point. Owens gave his own spin to a dancer’s tulle.
Beautiful
Sheer Beauty. Rochas SS15
Being Rochas woman nowadays might be hard- work, children, time for a nap. And the brand is known for it’s non-chalance and avantgarde. But this summer, Alessandro Dell Acqua made a little bit easier. Although we’ve got the super couture embroideries and lots of sheer beauty, there is a new way of being Rochas- wear socks with one of their confetti sling-back pumps! They are gorgeous. Just like the logo-matic R on the blouses and dresses. But for those who feel like dressing up in mostly couture level, there are those breath-taking gowns with tulle, embellished flowers and ribbons… or skirts with crotchet knits… or one of those floral coats… In other words, Dell Acqua brought us lots of different options. And the sheer elements are like magic. As for his second collection for Rochas, mister Alessandro really feels the Rochas spirit.
Nature Moment. Dries Van Noten SS15
Dries Van Noten possibly stole the day with his wonderful show yesterday. First of all, the 50m long carpet weaved three months in Argentina, which really looked and felt like moss. Then, the new mood, which feels like the quintessence of the next season- the 70’s and hippie style. We saw them like everywhere- Victoria Beckham, Prada, Derek Lam… but nobody really showed it in a real, original way. But the master of florals, Dries did. His summer woman loves nature, doesn’t care about rules, and mixes the prints the way she wants… showing some nudity. A splash of stripes, oriental embroideries, crotchet, fur, brocade, zig-zags and many more was the big thing. In other words, the hippie chic, where prints take the role, ruled.
Aah… and everything styled with sandals. The trousers were slouchy, the blazers were like whatever. The sheer beauty of Dries Van Noten’s Spring collection was inspired by John Everett Millais’ Ophelia, the Pre-Raphaelite image that launched a million hippie fantasies. In the painting, Ophelia floats dreamily in a magical woodland setting. And when the models had their final walk, everybody was totally relaxed- in a lazy way, the girls sat down on the “moss” having a nap. I think, we need to go to the forest, then. I am truely moved and in love. Thanks, Dries.
Classic Chic. Christophe Lemaire SS15
Christophe Lemaire shows you each season, that to be his woman, you shouldn’t buy new clothes every three months. His woman is about one piece of his clothing; a trench coat, a white cotton shirt or a cashmere sweater. And you simply mix it with your personal style! Lemaire simply does the transparent fashion- it isn’t provoking, but makes the crowd look at you and say “she is chic”. In his SS15, the Parisian favourite brought lots of white and cobalt- we had blue pencil skirts, and interesting white shirts. The culottes tied with a loosely worn belt looked stunning with grey mules, while the tunics had it’s perfect place under the classical mackintosh. Possibly not much. But the golden rule is says, less is more.
Flower Market. Marni SS15
Marni celbrates its 20th Anniversary! From this occasion, they opened a Marni Flower Market, which brings the most Marni-ish thing on Earth- florals. For this special season, Marni showed a clean, but bold collection featuring delicate, white tunics, yellow leather suits, flower-power printed gowns, white kimonos with obi belts… it was a chaotic harmony, this time at Marni. Many pieces were statement, and the looks can be easily mixed with last season pieces… while Marni played contrasts, the Milan fashion week comes up to an end…
































