Like a Nordic warrior – from the past or far in the future, we couldn’t tell. Cornrows circled the models’ heads like a beehive, with two plaits left long at the front. Faces were deathly pale with a white sheen as if frosted, and lips a cold metallic. That was the Alexander McQueen show, showed in a mossy, misty forest. Soft, virgin-white pieces worn against untouched, alabaster skin: broderie anglaise dresses with billowing peasant sleeves and starched white pilgrim collars tied with black bows. The damned temptresses wore gothic black: sheer dresses dotted with black feathers that grew into a full feather skirt, seductive low-cut gowns of inky ruffles, and shadowy black fur hoods. Final sheer white gowns were embroidered with stars and moons suggestive of the occult pentagram. These McQueen brides glided along the moss-covered ground, their pristine feathered hems trailing in their wake.

Beautiful
Abstract, but Embroidered. Valentino AW14

Starting with 60’s abstractive prints, progressing with birds, then with chunky sweaters and ending with butterflies, hearts and flowers… That was a very interesting twist for the house of Valentino. But was it necessary? I mean, the clothes were fantastic (that leather cape is my favourite). But so many themes were moved in this collection, that I got lost. It was somewhere between red geometrical patterns and Haute Couture embroidery. And this last gone with an embroidered heart was totally taken from another fairy-tale! That evening dress made out of butterfly tapestry is impressive. But it’s kind of not matching here. So what was the main idea? The new abstraction? Or the surreal beauty? I am still brain-storming that with myself…
White Noise by Repossi
Gaia Repossi, the creative director of Place Vendome’s jewellery house, Repossi, creates simple, but beautiful collections. The recent one, called White Noise, is full of lazy gold curves, delicate silver polishes and beautiful purple rhodium that was introduced last year. With the classical “berbere” ring re-edition (once it was more straight!) the collection seems to look luxurious even without a huge amount of gems- although there were lots of diamonds, as usually. But still, Repossi’s magic is kept in the simplicity and detail… and White Noise is definitely my one of the “curvier” beauties created by Gaia.
Monster. Comme des Garcons AW14
Rei Kawakubo herself defined the lineup in the following way: “The theme of the collection this time is MONSTER. It’s not about the typical Monster you find in sci-fi and video games. The expression of the Monsters I have made has a much deeper meaning. The craziness of humanity, the fear we all have, the feeling of going beyond common sense, the absence of ordinariness, expressed by something extremely big, by something that could be ugly or beautiful. In other words, I wanted to question the established standards of beauty.”
Masculine. Haider Ackermann AW14
Haider Ackermann knocked it off. The AW14 is amazing. Why? Because Ackermann got his own signature style. And that’s it. Digging in the masculine style, he creates elegant, distinctive collections for his clients that love his fashion. The recent collection is just that- very masculine, but at the same time full of feminine cuts. Tweeds worn over wool, maxi grey dresses verses long Saville Row coats… Haider’s AW14 had some opposing elements- but it all works out in the best way. Nothing to add nor subtract. That’s why it’s my favourite Parisian collection for fall to date.

























