Men’s – Globe Trotter. Haider Ackermann SS16

June 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann is a globetrotter since being a small child – he was born in Columbia, spent his childhood in Ethiopia and Algeria and later in the Netherlands. But he still loves long, exotic journeys. His recent collection for SS16 is a fusion of Persian and Japanese culture, with which he has been inspired lately. But don’t think he went kimonos. The new silhouettes for men, and partially for women, were all about sharp cuts and beautiful shades of blue, gold and grey. The collection was rich in details and had this “I need everything” reaction . But the thing I enjoy the most about this oriental summer was the styling – different textures and not so banal textiles were mixed in a very stylish, Haider way. As always, a favourite of mine!

Rose Marie Meyer, the newcomer beauty.

The amazing Yassine Rahal and the Cuban boots. Also a newcomer!

Men’s – Detournement. Gucci SS16

June 24, 2015June 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Detournement is the art of taking some parts of the past and using them in the present with a contemporary approach and away from their original contest” is what Alessandro Michele of Gucci said before his SS16 show for men. “I love to work with the past to translate the future,” explained Michele, and although his designs are certainly rooted in Gucci’s heritage (those horse-bit loafers, the green and red equestrian stripes, bee motifs and famous GG logos) they update the house’s codes in a way that’s unrecognisable, thanks to his desire of not wanting “to stay a prisoner inside of the brand.” There are many retro references, with suede jackets and wide collars adapted from classic silhouettes of the 70s, but there is, as Michele puts it, no room for nostalgia – his focus is on youth. “They really are the future – when someone asks me what the future is? The future is now, between us, between young people,” he says. Also, the dynamic, new creative director of Gucci has a truly amazing point of view on beauty for men fashion. “My idea of masculinity is beauty,” Michele said after the show. “If you want to be beauty you can be beauty how you want; it doesn’t mean that you are not a man or woman.” That is strongly visible in this collection – hand-made embroideries, royal looking textiles, tudoresque jewellery and that Italian “dolce vita” attitude towards life is felt all over these clothes.

As it is in Michele’s philosophy to have female models in his menswear collection, the mesmerizing robes and silk scarves were jaw-dropping for both genders. And even though, many of these clothes feel like out of this era, they are all looking far into the future. It is a great pleasure to have a peek at all that artisanal beauty and reflect on it in the same, poetic way. Maybe because Michele himself is a great poet?

Green. Givenchy Resort’16

June 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow – green? Yes! Riccardo Tisci absoutely shocked me with his very detox-coloured Resort for Givenchy. Minty dresses, olive skirts, khaki jackets, emerald animal prints (kind of eew) – mostly everything was splashed with the colour of peace, matcha tea and pea. And not overkill it, Tisci brought on the totally white looks at the end, giving us a smooth, elegant ending. To make it even more unexpected, the Givenchy team shot the look-book on the streets of London – this gives us a hint that the house thrives to surprise again, leaving behind printed t-shirts and dressing Kim and Kanye.

Female. The Row Resort’16

June 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row makes minimalism and “effortless” luxury its routine, and we all know it by observing the last years of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen at their brand. Resort 2016 tells a story about artists like Constantin Brâncuși or Jean Cocteau. They thought of a painter in his studio, in his oversize painter’s blouse that’s cinched at the waist. This image is balanced with the strong feminine spirit. And this wardrobe is her outside weapon filled with well tailored pieces for every scenario or journey she might encounter. She might be as laid-back as can be in a robe – or in enough layers to cast her sophistication and her strength.

Cuban Heat. Proenza Schouler Resort’16

June 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Boys from Proenza Schouler heated up their dress-code after their trip to Cuba in March. There, they became inspired with vibrant movement of the streets and feminine silhouette of traditional dresses. The dresses, which were the main components of the Resort 2016 collection, were made in a great, over-sized fit. They definitely can be worn for a hot flamenco. A sleeveless red tweed dress with a handkerchief hem and a gentle ruffle down the front (another nod to Cuba) was one of the best pieces, as elegant as it was effortless. The exposed shoulders gave a subtle sex-appeal, too. That was a good, good collection.