With Paz de la Huerta closing the show, Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label was all about a terrific wedding ceremony. And unisex fashion, too. The models oozed with non-chalance and aristocrat-wen-bad attitude; the glitter was everywhere. Girls wore over-sized blazers while the guys prefered dramatic gowns which lacked corsets – #freethenipple moment felt present everywhere. The chaos of this mad party had a riot tension – Vivienne celebrated all types of love in her gleeful collection.
The poet of black, Yohji Yamamoto, pushes the boundary again in his avant-garde world. The dresses weren’t dresses anymore. They were a form of art installations. Like a parachute explosion worn over a black turtleneck. Or a vacuum cleaner overload. There are many interpretations of Yohji’s fall fantasy – one thing’s sure. The more ready-to-wear clothes were great, too. In the black palette, Yohji Yamamoto modifies knitwear, shirts and masculine-inspired silhouettes to form a new dimension. The layering impresses as usual, making the models magically drown in black. Styled with perfect fedoras, the outfits were eccentric and wearable at the same time – even though, some might have been still under construction.
So, here we are. The second collection by John Galliano for Maison Margiela. Without explanation – John matches the spirit of Maison Martin Margiela PERFECTLY. Now with explanation. The collection was a more than fun – it had a melancholic humour in it. A bit childish, a bit grumpy. But bold and full of colour. The vinyl coat with green lilac attached to it talked bad witches; the Mary-Jane shoes were over-sized, so they made us think little children trying to look mature in their mum’s footwear; the orange gloves and voluminous caftans appeared to be inspired with aristocratic ladies who always have this magical aura around them… whatever they say, good that Galliano is back after a traumatic breaks and again brings fashion back to fashion.
Jonathan Anderson’s second women ready-to-wear collection for Loewe is a fresh look at a traveler’s wardrobe – tweed pants, comfy over-sized jackets, warm cashmere turtlenecks and easy dresses are just few of the new basics Anderson offers for the luxe voyagers. And just to heat it up, the British designer mixed bold, colourful accents with seriously good accessories – the Puzzle bag in blue or emerald suede is everything .”Like Spanish women,” he added. “They know who they are, they know how to have fun.” The Loewe woman for fall thinks about flirting, too – the huge sunglasses said it all. The azure pleated skirts drifted through the air in a very romantic way. Although the collection reminds me of J.W. Anderson’s London presentation, it still leaves a positive feeling.
Alber Elbaz AGAIN gives us boheme chic. Yes, it’s great, but not when you see it each season for the second year. Same sequins, feathers and prints. And those Pucci-esque gypsy themes… I say no to that, even though we’ve got some ultra appealing shades of burgundy here.
Design & Culture by Ed 