Feather Beauty. A.F. Vandevorst SS15

September 28, 2014September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My favourite Belgian label, A.F. Vandevorst, has just shown a magical collection. Keeping it a bit military, the designer couple introduced beautiful silhouttes and fabric. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a theme sledgehammered home by the rather extraordinary opening gown of what looked like parachute silk, with a train nearly the length of the runway. The models wore non-chalant gowns, wrapped jackets, red suits, very “natural” head covers and feather embroideries. And these ones were reall amazing. A.F. Vandevorst decorated the whole gown with feathers, making it look couture. But the simple shape of it made it feel (and look) very comfortable. Amazing.

Ethereal Punks. Ann Demeulemeester SS15

September 27, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sebastien Meunier, whose the second season at Ann Demeulemeester feels like a vocabulary of the house’s heritage, was shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week. The clothes were black & white, mesh and romantic fabrics were seen. The models had those punk-ish hair, but mostly it all felt silent and ethereal. In other words, it feels like if Ann was still present in the house, but with lack of progress. Beacaues that’s metaphorically true- Sebastien uses old house codes and hits, just to make it all more “commercial” and too Demeulemeester. The collection is not bad- but it feels like if the new creative director didn’t really try that hard as he should to make this Belgian brand be loved and respected. Hope the next season will be better…

Belgium: Birds of Paradise at Momu

July 21, 2014July 21, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

At MoMu, the fashion museum of Antwerp, a gorgeous exhibition is happening lately. Birds of Paradise: Plumes and feathers in fashion is a tribute to the elegance and refinement of plumes and feathers used in the industry. Thanks for their beauty, fragility and value they had various connotations and were used throughout the fashion history. The exhibition (having creations by designer like Thierry Mugler, Riccardo Tisci, Ann Demeulemeester, Olivier Theykens or Miuccia Prada) addresses aspects such as luxury, chic, freedom, femininity, lightness but also modernism and dark romance. For the exhibition, British sculptor Kate MccGwire set up some of her works made of pigeon feathers to engage in an interesting dialogue with couture fashion and Irving Penn photographs. Being in Antwerp till August 24th, you must see this fashion event!

Belgium: A.F. Vandevorst

July 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

A.F. Vandevorst is a brand I knew before, but I have never been too interested in it. Until I visited Belgium. First of all, you need to know these two simple equation: A.F. = Filip Arickx, while Vandevorst = Ann Vandevorst. And these two are quiet, cool couple, which created a Belgian, red-crossed brand which may be easily spotted thanks to it’s characteristics. Over the years, the duo’s influences have ranged from S&M-tinged clinical uniforms (such as the SS 2007 nun habits, SS 2008 PVC trenchcoats, FW 2014 army cargo, and their signature red cross logo) to German artists such as Joseph Beuys and choreographer Pina Bausch, and a week spent with the Samburu tribe in Kenya (SS 2012). Looking at their archives, I am impressed- the brand is so sophisticated and interesting. But it always keeps it’s specific, dark-romance style.

Look Du Jour: The Easy-Going

July 18, 2014August 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Another perfect day in Brugge… and we have the first outfit of the day! It’s a simple, over-sized Chloe sweater, Celine black sweatpants and the super comfortable Celine slides. As Brugge is full of beautiful views and places, here are more photos from our beautiful day.