Men’s / Seducing. Berluti AW18

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Let’s start from a very abstract concept. If Phoebe Philo decided on menswear (something Hedi Slimane has done a few days ago – read the news, if you still haven’t…) during her tenure at Céline, she would have chosen Haider Ackermann to do it – that’s for sure, looking at his latest offering for Berluti. It’s heavenly. It’s precisely what seduces me in menswear. Those soft cuts, colours. Not speaking of the jaw-dropping materials used. Just take a glance at the butter-y leather cognac coat or the pastel blue (!) pants. Or that luxe shearling. I really don’t need anything else in life. The ‘borrowed from men’ women’s line also has lots to love about it – from Stella Tennant walking down the pale pink runway to that one grey suit that is pure perfection. This might be my ultimate favourite of the men’s autumn-winter 2018 season.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Low-Key Luxe. Berluti SS18

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‘Understated luxury’ is quite the term to describe Haider Ackermann‘s fashion at Berluti. It’s the designer’s second season at LVMH’s menswear-only house, and although it seems that his bad-boy aesthetic might not fittingly root in at Berluti, Ackermann finds the right balance. Haider’s low-key chic for very rich men (only they can afford the brand, in fact) oozes in those hand-crafted leather jackets, incredibly tailored coats and deluxe sweatpants. Even though Berluti isn’t planning to open a womenswear line, models (from icons Stella Tennant and Liya Kebede to runway regulars Mica Arganaraz and Kiki De Willems) appeared in masculine silhouettes. “Well, it’s always amusing to have women around. And they all borrow men’s clothes. It’s a healthy thing, a sexy thing,” Ackermann concluded post-show.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Haiderness. Berluti AW17

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Haider Ackermann‘s appointment as the creative director of Berluti was one of the best news of 2016. In the past, Berluti had some good collections under Alessandro Sartori, however the overall image of this menswear brand was unclear. Knowing and loving Haider at his namesake label for years, his new role at Berluti felt promising – in fact that was a certain success. Although it’s just the debut collection, Ackermann already presented his new additions to the historic brand, sending down the runway few women’s looks (worn by Liya Kebede, Jamie Bochert – his long-time muses). Berluti girls matched their boys, who also fancied velvet blazers and earthy colour palette. Camel coat was the opening look, signalling Ackermann’s approach to everyday wear, rather than rock & roll dandies we know so well from his own collections. The lilac aviator jacket in suede is a dream-come-true, just like the coats with over-sized, fur collars. Drooling! Need even more of that Haiderness.

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Haider Ackermann at Berluti

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First moments of September weren’t that bad at all. At around 7 am, on my way to school, Haider Ackermann posted a photo of Berluti logo on his Instagram, tagging it with “A NEW JOURNEY”. In other words, my favourite menswear designer (of course I love his women’s collection, too, but that’s off the topic) has been appointed the new creative director of Italian luxury house, which is famous for its legacy of shoe-making since 1895. The clash of traditional tailoring and Ackermann’s signature, rock-man-slash-poet aesthetic will definitely become the most explosive moment of upcoming men’s season. I’m dying to see Haider’s take on a widely recognized fashion house.

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Backstage photos of Haider Ackermann’s spring-summer 2017 by Adam Katz Sinding.