Haider Ackermann‘s appointment as the creative director of Berluti was one of the best news of 2016. In the past, Berluti had some good collections under Alessandro Sartori, however the overall image of this menswear brand was unclear. Knowing and loving Haider at his namesake label for years, his new role at Berluti felt promising – in fact that was a certain success. Although it’s just the debut collection, Ackermann already presented his new additions to the historic brand, sending down the runway few women’s looks (worn by Liya Kebede, Jamie Bochert – his long-time muses). Berluti girls matched their boys, who also fancied velvet blazers and earthy colour palette. Camel coat was the opening look, signalling Ackermann’s approach to everyday wear, rather than rock & roll dandies we know so well from his own collections. The lilac aviator jacket in suede is a dream-come-true, just like the coats with over-sized, fur collars. Drooling! Need even more of that Haiderness.
First moments of September weren’t that bad at all. At around 7 am, on my way to school, Haider Ackermann posted a photo of Berluti logo on his Instagram, tagging it with “A NEW JOURNEY”. In other words, my favourite menswear designer (of course I love his women’s collection, too, but that’s off the topic) has been appointed the new creative director of Italian luxury house, which is famous for its legacy of shoe-making since 1895. The clash of traditional tailoring and Ackermann’s signature, rock-man-slash-poet aesthetic will definitely become the most explosive moment of upcoming men’s season. I’m dying to see Haider’s take on a widely recognized fashion house.
Backstage photos of Haider Ackermann’s spring-summer 2017 by Adam Katz Sinding.
Alessandro Sartori who gave a rebirth to the old label Berluti, known for the best men suits and shoes, simply nailed it yesterday at the first to date live runway collection. Elegant, comfortable suits made with the best tailoring; cashmere sweaters in warm colours; shoes made of triple layered wool and leather; and amazing camel coats are just few of the highlights. I really loved the selection of models; mature, with a specific chic in them. The way they wore the outfits (nonchalantly, a bit loosely) with gloves and huge bags was like a poetry. After discovering Berluti once again, I am already waiting for the new changes made by Mr. Sartori!