Victoria Beckham did a really good job with her SS14 collection! It’s very in her style, minimalistic and beautiful. The collection was inspired with modern architecture- easy forms, black & white colours, truss triangle pattern on bags and dresses and many other showed the things that influenced Vicky’s clothes for Summer. But, although the collection is pretty warm (come on, golf sweaters?) and cold at the same time (well, these colours would for sure better match the next winter!), the collection is very good and I like it! The opener of the show was of course the new muse of Beckham, Edie Campbell, the British beauty, that season before was together with Cara Delevigne in every campaign and show!
Black and White
Cool Girls. Peter Som SS14
The second day of fashion week in New York is all about Summer glamour, lightness and bright prints- but not as last summer, where we could see only stripes. No it’s all about a la Emilio Pucci prints that look super sexy on the swimsuits. The Peter Som collection for SS14 was definetely one of these cool shows. The blue colours looked refreshing, just like the geometric lines and white, over large dresses! The collection was a bit about the style of mixing prints and trends- it was a pleaure to see these vintage looking shoes in leo dots mashed up into the look of the beautiful balloon white dress. This young designer’s leather speciality is for sure the eel skin- this pretty specific fabric was used to cover whole coat that looked marvellous! But, I can’t hide my impression, that Peter certainly did copy some details from past collections of his New York “in the proffesion” friends…
The New Yorkers
The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!
Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.
From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! 
No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.
Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!
Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!
Family of Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci always takes to his campaigns the closest friends and people that are important for him: like last season that was Kate Moss, Marina Abramovic and Mariacarla Boscono with her newborn baby! He joined his power with Mert & Alas Pigott to take this fantastic shoot full of family charm in punk version and simple beauty. Amanda Seyfriend was here in the Bambi Killer (I call it like this 🐼) outfit looking so beautiful and naturally… There was also Carine Roitfeld with her daughter Julia, who didn’t really look like a typical family- Carine was mind blowing! She looked so fresh and I would say… french!
Design & Culture by Ed 