Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.
Black
Edie Campbell / Advent 2014
Ania Kuczynska AW14
As you might now, I am really in love with Ania Kuczynska’s designs. Her Warsaw-based label, which is the most coveted in Poland, is a beautiful mixture of nonchalance and minimalism. And, oppositely to other Polish designers, Ania is not concentrating on the so-called “sponsored wall” or stars which should be invited for the show. No. For her, the most important are clothes and atmosphere, which is usually, modern and elegant. This time, for AW14 season (yep, sounds strange while the SS15 collection round have just ended), Kuczynska took us to the iconic Bristol Hotel, where she presented a dark, elusive collection full of sheer dresses and heavy, floor sweeping coats. The clothes, which had feminine, but simple cuts, reminded the Night Porter silhouettes. The name of this mysterious collection, LAVA, was possibly all about the fluid-like heaviness of the dark materials, while the quiet stars felt like a good way of having a dreamy night. Big bravo for this mesmerising collection because it (just like the whole concept of the label) truly out-stands the Polish fashion scene. Backstage photos via i-D Poland.
What’s Hot (5.9.14)
Belgium: A.F. Vandevorst
A.F. Vandevorst is a brand I knew before, but I have never been too interested in it. Until I visited Belgium. First of all, you need to know these two simple equation: A.F. = Filip Arickx, while Vandevorst = Ann Vandevorst. And these two are quiet, cool couple, which created a Belgian, red-crossed brand which may be easily spotted thanks to it’s characteristics. Over the years, the duo’s influences have ranged from S&M-tinged clinical uniforms (such as the SS 2007 nun habits, SS 2008 PVC trenchcoats, FW 2014 army cargo, and their signature red cross logo) to German artists such as Joseph Beuys and choreographer Pina Bausch, and a week spent with the Samburu tribe in Kenya (SS 2012). Looking at their archives, I am impressed- the brand is so sophisticated and interesting. But it always keeps it’s specific, dark-romance style.
































