HC: Viktor & Rolf AW13

July 4, 2013January 21, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Viktor & Rolf wasn’t present on the Haute Couture calendar for about 13 years and the label have changed a bit into a more commercial subject than couture. But, this summer,Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren made a decision: They staged their comeback in honor of their label’s twentieth anniversary—”there’s no better way to celebrate,” Rolf said, adding that it was also an effort to “divide our wearable side and our conceptual side.”
Very high concept it was. The presentation was more like a art performance than a show. On a Zen garden platform with few black blocks on it remaining rocks, both designer came out and… Started to meditate! It lasted for about five minutes, and then the models appeared. The looks weren’t very detailed- but their forms were a sculpture by it’s own. All twenty wore the same black fabric, a technical silk that had the spongy look of neoprene, and flat ropy sandals. The first look out, a shirtdress, had strange, deflated volumes above the knees in front and below them in back. And now the performance started- Snoeren situated the first model on a block, reforming the dress in his own patent. The next model sat down next to the first one. Horsting was doing his job in this performance. And at the end, the model in a huge cape stood in the middle of the girls, covering them all, forming a black stone! Fantastic! This looked so relaxed, ZEN, that I felt in love with this collection. About the project’s genesis, Viktor said, “We’ve been running around for so long, we thought, let’s enjoy where we are. Our current state of mind is mindfulness”

Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14

June 30, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.

Men’s: Rick Owens 👽 Adidas

June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

When I heard of that fantastical collaboration I was like no way. But it is all true. Rick Owens for Adidas or other side back. And the effect is mind blowing! It’s like the Rick Owens classical sneakers with high top, but in a more “fat” edition. Kept in a typical Ricky colour palette, these masterpieces that were shown during the Paris Fashion Week for men for sure got a much, much higher price tag than normal Adidas sneakers… But they look so good!

Le Smoking

June 21, 2013November 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking look is schanging every season, but always stays black, simple and classical. Even if it is now Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane! The campaigns of this famous Parisian style looks maybe slightly different (models for example) but usually it’s all about one beautiful women in the Le Smoking and other one totally naked! Just like in 1975, when Le Smoking began to be a bestseller of the master, Yves. After his death, Stefano Pilati came and strangely looking from persepective of now, FORGOT how the Le Smoking should look like! There were some black jackets but there was no this parisian chic thing. Now, when it’s Hedi, after few months later when his AW13 show was presented, I think Hedi Slimane keeps the tradition much better than Stefano! Just check Net A Porter- you look, and mostly we can see the elegant jackets and trousers to the Le Smoking costumes! It’s chick, luxurious and elegant but Ready to Wear! And now this amazing campaign with Cara Delevigne (advertising YSL Baby Doll) with this naked women… This is like a new Helmut Newton work (he took this fabulous pic in 1975 on Rue Aubriot in Paris).

And today (but before Cara) Anja Rubik looks amazing in Le Smoking Slimane photography for his campaign. Here are pics of past Le Smoking campaigns and runway pics from Yves era! Chic, Chic!

And now just one thing… did you see the Louis Vuitton film for Love Magazine presenting top models (Cara, Magdalena Frackowiak…) walking naked in furs around Paris at night? And sitting in a car and doing sexy poses? This film by James Lima did a lot controversy in the media worl, for example that LV accuses prostitution in their campaign! Well… in 1975 Helmut Newton did a controversy with his Smoking campaign and nobody set it’s prostitution. By the way, in 1975 (again) there was this TOTALLY naked (in film Cara wears fur) and there was no real commotion about it. And that was kind of good then? It is good, as well as the film. So for what do the politicians do this commotion? in reality, there is a really short moment when one model show some parts. I think this film is more about fashion and sensuality than about prostitutions. For sure for controversy that Marc Jacobs likes to do…But should we care? I like it, just as the amazing Le Smoking!

Virtual. Christopher Kane Resort’14

June 18, 2013August 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I love science” said Christopher Kane during his presentation of Resort 2014 for women. And this collection is seriously fantastic. Kane, inspired by the kind of digital imaging that defined the dawn of computerized special effects, did something that kicked everyone in their faces. This is like you’ve into a virtual world, where everything is 3-D and has it’s layers. There are women bodies and flowers. And now imagine, this world on a… sweatshirt or a dress! After AW13, I thought Kane’s creativity will be killed by the new group Kering that invests him lots of money. The AW13 collection was like very classical, colourless… luxurious. But now, after seeing this I am so pleased, that this absolutely great designer will be still shocking! The whole “computerized” idea reminded me of this little Pokemon fellow that is called Porygron. As you see, it’s also kind of virtual, edgy and colourful! From now, Porygron is the most trendy Pokemon in London! Going back to the collection, couture is strongly noticed. But a very Londonese. And I think that some super stars could for sure wear this black dress with the lily in the front- it is so beautiful! Christopher Kane is a really different designer- luxurious (price!!!) and at the same time artistic and full of idea. This is what I like!