Black

Le Smoking

| Design & Culture by Ed

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The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking look is schanging every season, but always stays black, simple and classical. Even if it is now Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane! The campaigns of this famous Parisian style looks maybe slightly different (models for example) but usually it’s all about one beautiful women in the Le Smoking and other one totally naked! Just like in 1975, when Le Smoking began to be a bestseller of the master, Yves. After his death, Stefano Pilati came and strangely looking from persepective of now, FORGOT how the Le Smoking should look like! There were some black jackets but there was no this parisian chic thing. Now, when it’s Hedi, after few months later when his AW13 show was presented, I think Hedi Slimane keeps the tradition much better than Stefano! Just check Net A Porter- you look, and mostly we can see the elegant jackets and trousers to the Le Smoking costumes! It’s chick, luxurious and elegant but Ready to Wear! And now this amazing campaign with Cara Delevigne (advertising YSL Baby Doll) with this naked women… This is like a new Helmut Newton work (he took this fabulous pic in 1975 on Rue Aubriot in Paris).

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And today (but before Cara) Anja Rubik looks amazing in Le Smoking Slimane photography for his campaign. Here are pics of past Le Smoking campaigns and runway pics from Yves era! Chic, Chic!

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Cara-Delevingne

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And now just one thing… did you see the Louis Vuitton film for Love Magazine presenting top models (Cara, Magdalena Frackowiak…) walking naked in furs around Paris at night? And sitting in a car and doing sexy poses?  This film by James Lima did a lot controversy in the media worl, for example that LV accuses prostitution in their campaign! Well… in 1975 Helmut Newton did a controversy with his Smoking campaign and nobody set it’s prostitution. By the way, in 1975 (again) there was this TOTALLY naked (in film Cara wears fur) and there was no real commotion about it. And that was kind of good then? It is good, as well as the film. So for what do the politicians do this commotion? in reality, there is a really short moment when one model show some parts. I think this film is more about fashion and sensuality than about prostitutions. For sure for controversy that Marc Jacobs likes to do…But should we care? I like it, just as the amazing Le Smoking!

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Virtual. Christopher Kane Resort’14

| Design & Culture by Ed

Slide1-kopia 8“I love science” said Christopher Kane during his presentation of Resort 2014 for women. And this collection is seriously fantastic. Kane, inspired by the kind of digital imaging that defined the dawn of computerized special effects, did something that kicked everyone in their faces. This is like you’ve into a virtual world, where everything is 3-D and has it’s layers. There are women bodies and flowers. And now imagine, this world on a… sweatshirt or a dress! After AW13, I thought Kane’s creativity will be killed by the new group Kering that invests him lots of money. The AW13 collection was like very classical, colourless… luxurious. But now, after seeing this I am so pleased, that this absolutely great designer will be still shocking! Slide2-kopiaSlide3-kopiaThe whole “computerized” idea reminded me of this little Pokemon fellow that is called Porygron. As you see, it’s also kind of virtual, edgy and colourful! From now, Porygron is the most trendy Pokemon in London! Going back to the collection, couture is strongly noticed. But a very Londonese. And I think that some super stars could for sure wear this black dress with the lily in the front- it is so beautiful! Christopher Kane is a really different designer- luxurious (price!!!) and at the same time artistic and full of idea. This is what I like! Slide4-kopiaSlide5-kopia

No Light. Gareth Pugh AW13

| Design & Culture by Ed

Slide02 If you have a winter depression as most of people and want to make it even more noticeble, Gareth Pugh 2014 AW is just the right for you. Everything is dramatic, sad, deep and couture. Even the setting that is connected to the title of this post- no light! The windows were totally covered with timber. This is a talent to make the interior perfect for clothes!Slide03Slide04Pugh showed his classics- leather gloves, capes in dark depressing colours, minimalistic plants on bottom of white maxi dresses…Everything is as for me a bit boring and totally not new. Like if Gareth didn’t make a progress but stopped in one place. Slide05Slide07Slide08But I have to admit that the outfit were the model wears a overloose white t-shirt on a black maxi dress looks stunning. So different from others. Everything has a kind of Asiatic inspiration if talking about structure. Wide sleeves, Kimono long jackets, Japanese prints with some “dead” sakura trees.Slide06Slide09Slide01And the at the end there was a couture vibe- black stiff feathers on beautiful dresses and magnificient head decorations. But unfortunately that was not the best Gareth Pugh collection. There were better and more risk taking. Maybe next time…