Boho

Gaby Aghion, the creator of Chloe, passed away one day before the SS15 show. And the summer collection is dedicated to her big role in French fashion. It just couldn’t be more french- by happenstance, the designer Clare Waight Keller sent out a collection that is the closest she has come yet to capturing Chloé’s free spirit. It may now be a label for international – rather than specifically French – young women, but the British-born designer has reached a point where everything is working well. The clothes had loosened up. A lot of the inspiration seemed like hippie-de-luxe from the Seventies – a trend for Summer 2015. But the high quality of a fresh, full-sleeved white shirt worn with tailored shorts, or a shorts outfit in saffron and rust suede, put Chloé in a class all its own. The denim here looked designer-worthy – especially a skirt with the denim-blue dyed into a sweater. And what the designer called her minimum and maximum looks – billowing long dresses and short ones – created a nice balance. Surely one of the strongest Chloe collection up to date.

Angela Missoni, the new woman behind the iconic brand, Missoni, showed the new boho chic in her SS15 collection. Covered with the ethnic Missoni ZIGZAG print, we saw a rhapsody of over-size tredn: trousers in aqua marine colour; skirts in blush pink; Diana Vreeland like turbans on the model’s heads; gorgeous pyjama shirts… in other words, I wanted to jump into the perfect David Hockney pool, when I saw the collection for the first time. There were sensational flaring coats in lace knit double-faced with nylon tulle—a knitwear breakthrough for Missoni, because it created a perfect paradox: substance with a gossamer lightness. The embroidered flowers only made the coats better. The simplest shapes—a smock, a shift—were elongated and energized by finely graded colors. Missoni ruled yesterday with it’s boho triumph. Art by David Hockney.