Bottega Veneta

Tomas Maier knows how to make the audience love his discreet, calm Bottega Veneta collections – sending out Jamie Bochert in a total-black look made up of a coat, fringed scarf, sleek flares and silver-polished pumps effortlessly becomes one of the season’s best looks. The next looks were nearly as good as the opening – new Italian machinery industry has brought a revolution in knitting, and that’s visible in these lady-like skirts, pants and coats. The collection had a bit of non-chalance, too – the masculine smoking was unbuttoned, to expose a black bra which conveyed the good, clubbing 70’s. Refined chic, based on your grandma’s tweed coat, necklaces and knitted tops, has never felt so up to date as now, at Bottega.

Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, takes his man (and woman) to the darker side this season. But the colour of black had its function – Maier made it the leading colour of the show in order to present a contrast. “It’s about the silhouette. I felt it needed change. All the sportswear-inspired elements that we have been putting in: It’s time to move on. It’s becoming a trend, lots of people are doing that, I don’t need to do it forever.” Rather than reintepreting de luxe sweatpants, the collection was focused on the way the athletic, yet elegant clothes look on the body of both men and women. For guys, Bottega Veneta channeled a loose-fit chic, while girls looked soigné in their calfskin coats and relaxed skirts. Even though this collection is not a ground-breaking one, it feels like one of the best menswear outings by the designer up to date.