Probably the worst thing about the fashion industry and its people with big pockets is that there’s no patience. Designers who are appointed as creative directors of luxury brands that need a dust-off are given far too little time to develop their sensibilities and seduce new clients, and after about two, at most three years, become disposable in the eyes of the houses’ owners. That’s what unfortunately happened at the Diego Della Valle-owned Tod’s, where designer Walter Chiapponi was on a really great path of making the brand actually mean something in contemporary times. His last collection for the brand was at the same time his best, and you can just imagine where he would take it next. While taking his final bow, the designer’s white worker’s shirt was emblazoned with the following adage: “The essential is visible to the eyes, but not for everyone, nor even to understand everything”. The subject of the phrase is drawn from The Little Prince, but when applied under the context of Chiapponi’s departure, it has a new dimension that can be easily applied to the entire industry.

Presented against the mise-en-scene of unfinished set pieces and production for an upcoming performance of Don Carlos, Chiapponi placed this collection in-situ amongst scenographers, sculptors and carpenters to highlight the innate workmanship inherent to every Tod’s piece. The collection drew on masculine codes prominent in the 90s, where minimalist tailoring, leatherwork and knitwear reigned supreme. Over 44 looks, the designer – with some help from stylist Brian Molloy – reimagined wardrobe staples – a pleated skirt accented by harness motifs or shirting with inverted collars to appear like they’re worn backwards – through a softly feminine lens. As always, the accessories are exemplary of the Made in Italy prestige, including lurid chartreuse mules, Gammino moccasins and a new woven sandal that smooths the harsh interlacing fisherman sandal for a metropolitan appeal. However, it is the labour’s work belt reenvisioned as a utilitarian accessory that serves as the proverbial pièce de résistance for a collection advocating for a craft-led approach to fashion. This saddle-shaped style featured in almost every look, featuring two distinct pockets and a gilded clip suitable for hanging your leather gloves when you grow tired of wearing them. This definitely was one of the best line-ups we’ve seen this Milan Fashion Week.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram! By the way, did you know that I’ve started a newsletter called Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!