Grown Up. Eckhaus Latta AW19

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta go all grown up for autumn-winter 2019: earthy colour palette, mature tailoring, constructed silhouettes. Eckhaus Latta affiliates with raw edginess, but this season it felt like the designers wanted something a bit more grounded. Their Brooklyn presentation had pieces that you will drool for next season. A teddy bear jacket; parachute dress in bottle-green; loosely fitted blazers. But still, there were hints of the label’s distinctive, arty background, like the tops and belts made out of wooden car beads. The UGG collaboration on the boots felt very, very Eckhaus Latta too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Aurora and Brother Vellies

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Who is Aurora James? She’s the girl every fashion conscious person in New York knows. Shortly, she’s the founder and designer behind Brother Vellies. But her label isn’t an average footwear and accessories one-moment-Instagram-hashtag thing – Aurora is up to something much more significant, and certainly ground-breaking. Bringing fashion, which is both ethnically appropriate and ethically made is a struggle in today’s fashion industry – and the latest spring-summer collection of Valentino proves that, with an all-white model cast wearing tribal, African dresses and cornrows. But Aurora does a totally opposite thing. Rather than saying that her shoes are just “inspired with Kenya”, she really has them made in Kenya, by local craftsmen and women. Naturally, the artisans are properly paid, and have an amazing opportunity to show their real, heritage tradition of shoe making abroad.  “There is a popular saying in South Africa that only two things will survive the apocalypse: cockroaches, and vellies.” The phrase describes the indestructible nature of veldskoens (a South African shoe known colloquially as “vellies”) and an idea that is Aurora’s foundation of her design signature. James believes that her shoes should last for a long time – that’s why the quality of those hand-made shoes, decorated with various types of raffia, furs and feathers, have a solid and durable sole. Moreover, this talented, Brooklyn-based designer won the main CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund award together with the designer behind Gypsy Sport, Rio Uribe, and Jonathan Simkhai! Now, I am extremely curious what will be the next step for Aurora… and I can’t wait to see her shoes in person when they hit Europe.

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Brooklyn Heights. Dior Resort’15

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Dior and Brooklyn sound strange in one sentence. The baby of Parisian LVMH and a district of New York? Believe that or not, but that’s totally true- Dior showed it’s Resort 2015 collection in Navy Yard Greenhouse, from which a beautiful view of Manhattan’s skyscrapers is seen. In my opinion, the collection (excluding the fact it was presented in Brooklyn) was one of the best that Raf Simons presented to date. The artistic director created a smart, lovely and energetic collection that is a mix of eternal Parisian chic and the new New York style. Simons took up the silk scarf—le carré, as they say in Paris—as the show’s leitmotif. It meant that these clothes were more fluid than the sculpted and molded silhouettes of some of his previous collections for Dior. And, of course, you had an impression you look at art- everything felt artsy and very free-spirited!

About the artist: Lucien Freud is known chiefly for his thickly impastoed portrait and figure paintings, he was widely considered the pre-eminent British artist of his time. His works are noted for their psychological penetration, and for their often discomforting examination of the relationship between artist and model.

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Interview with… Reed Anderson

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While seeking talented fashion designers and artists on the social platform, Instagram, I discovered Reed Anderson (@iamreed), who is creating unique artworks in Brooklyn, New York. His practice draws from a background of printmaking and cultural arts, creating an interesting mix of modern fantasies, making you imagine what you feel like. The heart of Reed’s current body of work uses large pieces of intricately cut paper as a stencil, which is folded and painted upon itself multiple times to create an image. Paper that has been cut out of these drawings are further embellished and collaged into the larger drawing, while smaller artworks arise from “detritus” printed elsewhere while working.
I hope you will enjoy this special interview with Reed that is only available here, on Design & Culture by Ed!

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ED How would you describe your artistic techniques? They look really unique…

REED Thank you… I think primarily my work comes out of printmaking and painting… The cut paper works are hand-cut into large painted and printed stencils that become the tools that effect other work, but they also become works unto themselves. Pieces that have been cut out of the paper reappear as collage as things are patched and disorganized …reorganized. This time-consuming cutting of paper is countered by a more irreverent way of working with it once this process is complete …I like countering the super intricate with the fucked up messy things, it’s more true to life.

ED What is the “Papa Object” all about?

REED These paintings steal auction catalogue images and reproduces them as large photographic images that are printed on, painted, cut, collaged, altered and walked on to re-present the object as a kind of painting. PapaObject is specific to a group of these paintings I mailed to locations around the globe as a kind of research experiment before deciding to show them publicly. Places included a sweatshop in China, a research vessel in Antarctica and an office cubical at MOMA. (can we get Poland with you?) The project can be seen at http://www.papaobject.com. I am currently looking for someone to help publish this as a book.

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ED I heard you have a solo exhibition at Pierogi Gallery in New York. How did you feel when you were offered this surely mind-blowing experience?

REED I always feel grateful to be showing my work anywhere …but yes, opportunities to show in New York are especially “mind-blowing” as you say, because of the scale of audience that you reach. This will be my fourth show at Pierogi, and I feel very lucky to have them representing me here in New York.

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ED What is behind “The Way You Look is The Way I Feel” title that is the name of your Pierogi exhibition?

REED Titles are important to me, but less so about specifics and more about an energy they give …also important is how they feel in the mouth, when you say them. This particular exhibition title came from something someone said. I knew immediately I had to take it. The more I thought about it, talked to people… it became clear how many different ways we could see it. Was it a pick-up line at a bar or was it about people looking at art or each other? It’s really funny to me, but there’s always something serious when we’re laughing.

ED While working, do you plan before creating or you do it spontaneously?

REED If you want to take a trip, you’re just a tourist if you carry a map. The work embodies some of the processes of printmaking, a kind of plan, but later this map is always tossed out for the forward spontaneity of painting. I would get bored if I always knew where I was going…

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ED Do you have any motto you would like to share with DACBE’s readers?

REED This Buddhist monk and I were talking about worry (…this sounds like I’m telling a joke) and he said to me, “don’t live in the ruins of your future” … I think about this any time I’m starting to get freaked out about stuff. It keeps me in the present and allows for an optimistic blind faith that is necessary to continue working.

Reed Anderson’s show at Pierogi Gallery runs through April 27th. The gallery is located at 177 N. 9th. Street, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City www.reedanderson.info

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