Mature Seduction. Haider Ackermann SS18

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It’s rare to see a designer, who throughout time is true to his or her style, and at the same time is keen on evolving. Haider Ackermann is the perfect example of such designer. Since designing for Berluti, a solely menswear luxury brand, its visible how Ackermann’s tailoring skills have improved and grown up. But still, his signature sensibility is as alive as a decade ago. The spring-summer 2018 isn’t only about breathtaking tailoring (although if every designer had at least one impressive suit in their collection, precisely in a deep shade of burgundy, I would be more than pleased), but also a long-lasting affair with modern-looking draping. I mean, how good are those evening dresses? Dreaming to see Tilda Swinton wearing one on the red carpet, oozing with some unconventional, anti-glamour seduction. In overall, the collection was very mature and minimal, but there were some charming remnants of the ‘old’, badass-pirate-style Haider. The jackets in precious gold (a striking contrast to soft lilac and light yellow) were made of a ‘cracked-up’ fabric, and if you scan it thoroughly, you will notice that it looks like a tattered wallpaper. Really, really good. Well, I should also add ‘as always’ in case of Ackermann.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Burgundy. Victoria Beckham AW17

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Victoria Beckham‘s fashion is like red wine – it gets better with time. Maybe that reflection appeared due to the excellent shade of burgundy, which appeared countless times in her autumn-winter 2017 collection? But still, with every season, my love for Victoria’s fashion grows. And what’s more – the designer becomes even more experimental than usual, trying out styles that are totally new for her. Specifically, the blazer-and-skirt combo, which really does look intriguing according to Beckham’s sheer vs. heavy layering and brilliant colour palette. Turtlenecks and knitted midi-skirts made the overall silhouette look statuesque. Retro graphic patterns and long gloves finally gave the entire collection a feminine feel. However, it’s far different from the body-dress ‘femininity’ some can still remember from Victoria’s earlier days.

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Re-Visted. Christopher Kane SS15

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Being thankful for his teacher, Louise Wilson, who died earlier this week, Christopher Kane dedicated his show to her. The SS15 collection felt like a moment of breath; of memory; of reflection. Kane definitely did his first “re-visted” show, meaning he summed up his best looks and seasons, to create something of a summary, In reality, we saw a lot of these pieces before- the velvet / seatin mix. Burgundy explosion. Interesting couture embroideries. Street influenced sophisticated looks. And a lot of sheer fabrics. I can’t say this collection made me stunned- no, not at all. It looks pretty innovative, with it’s new, glamorous mood. But it really feels, that Kane got commercialised. Even the fact that his first flagship store is on it’s way means something. Hopefully, the next time is going to be more Kane-ish.

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