To Cherish and Wear. Loewe AW18

loewe

What does Loewe‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection stands for? The balance between a working and private life. This woman might equally wear her grey shirt-dress to the office, as well as to her weekend house (that has a lovely chimney spot, by the way). Actually, Jonathan Anderson is about to deliver all the needs Phoebe Philo will no longer be here for next autumn – jaw-dropping shearling coats; sophisticated, yet comfortable eveningwear; business-smart tailoring and shirting. The last looks had something of curated artiness that Anderson likes to inject into the house. See the multi-coloured thread inserts and fringing present in the maxi-skirts and gowns. To conclude, that’s fashion to cherish, and wear!

Slajd17Slajd18Slajd19Slajd21Slajd20Slajd22

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

I’m Bossy. Alexander Wang AW18

Slide1

Staged in a former Condé Nast office, filled with corporate cubicle walls, Alexander Wang‘s autumn-winter 2018 fashion show’s venue promised a lot. Glass-ceiling breaking! Female empowerment! Strong, business dressing! All that came to my mind instantly. But did the designer deliver anything worthwhile? Except the Matrix reference and lots of black, nothing else, honestly. It’s hard to imagine a working woman wear any of those  dominatrix mini-dresses and leather skirts with slits in the most NSFW spots. Not that sexy is bad. I’m not trying to sound puritan! But I just don’t think this theme really works for Wang, and his ‘party girl’ roots. If it was just another Wang-ish collection, it would at least feel persuasive. He tried to do something mature, maybe.  Sadly, the result is a mash-up of current Saint Laurent, vintage Mugler and Gucci-era Tom Ford, in wrong context. Fingers crossed that the trip to Paris next season will be slightly more succesful for the designer…

Slide14Slide16Slide15Slide17Slide18Slide19

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Empowering. Tom Ford AW16

41_tom_ford_fall_2016_ready_to_wear_jpg_8141_north_1382x_black

Fashion month kicks it off, and we’re all ready for the next marathon of womenswear. But surprisingly, New York Fashion Week starts with a first industry ‘paradox’. It’s September, and throughout the years we’ve got used to the fact that we start reflecting on the next summer wardrobe at the very beginning of the cold season. Tom Ford does the opposite, presenting autumn-winter 2016 collection, instead of spring-summer 2017 (which you will see a lot during the upcoming weeks). But he isn’t an exception – this new model of selling, so see-it-now and buy-it-now logic, is already in the process at Burberry or Thakoon. But why is Tom Ford, and the others, making it even more complicated, if we already have all those pre-collections and capsules? Well, in fact they want to make it all easier for us all, even though the transition moment is HARD.

Here’s why. Tom Ford presented his AW16 collection yesterday in the evening during a celebrity-filled dinner (Tom Hanks, Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman to name a few), and today, a majority of those clothes hit the on-line stores and boutiques world-wide. Looking behind-the-scenes, the international buyers ordered the collection months ago, Tom Ford factory had its time to produce the one-of-a-kind pieces, and the customers are really into buying those velvet skirts and sequined turtlenecks, because they feel so “relevant”. They just saw it on the internet and their heavily-Instagrammed feed. As easy as that – virtually, the sales boom. Logistically, everyone is appealed to this new deal, which will MAYBE slow down the pace of the industry.

slide1-kopia-4

slide3

But Tom Ford’s newest collection isn’t a sensation just because of its new, business strategy. This glamorous outing of diverse models (featuring 90s stars like Amber Valletta and todays newcomers) wearing feminine silhouettes and gorgeous accessories, is one of Ford’s best for a long, long time. Belted corsets on seductive leather jackets and slim pencil skirts. Ornamental, gold necklaces contrasted with elegant, tweed dresses, while over-the-knee boots made the models look even taller and badass. Mica Arganaraz and Lineisy Monero walked down the runway in colourful fur coats; Grace Hartzel, in her all-black outfit, looked like a rock’n’roll chick with whom you can’t argue. It sounds like a collection oozing with sex-appeal, a typical thing for Tom’s past, provocative Gucci-era. But in fact, it was much more mature, and it celebrated this specific type of killer woman, who enters the room and makes people drop. Guys in velvet blazers and duvet jackets looked nothing but harmless next to those girls. Ford definitely has a toast to a very good start of the fashion month, and his brands’ future of the revolutionary retail model.

slide2-kopia

slide4

slide5

slide1-kopia-2