THE ACT 🕊 #DACBE: Approximately a year ago, COVID-19 hit Europe. #PierpaoloPiccioli presented his #Valentino collection during Paris Fashion Week (who would have ever believed back then that fashion weeks will switch to digital?!) and the solemn, melancholic elegance he sent down the runway captured the first feelings of crisis. For #AW21, you would have expected some sort of bold, joyful vision of future re-emergence most designers are desperately talking about this season. But surprisingly – especially having in mind his recent, extraordinary couture collection! – Piccioli decided to stay a realist, staying in the black-and-white colour palette. He thought of a modern-day punk attitude with a romantic twist. From the sheer lace evening gowns to over-sized shirts worn as dresses, the collection looks towards the aspect of comfort, but not in a lazy way. More on the JOURNAL 🤍 #Milan #MFW #PierpaoloPiccioli #ValentinoActCollection #NewRomance #ModernPunk #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖤 #collage by me.
IT’S PERFECT ☁️ #DACBE: It’s always refreshing to see a #Zanini line-up during #MFW. While it’s mostly about who’s louder and bolder in #Milan, #MarcoZanini delivers quiet collections that actually speak volumes and have true substance. Don’t get me wrong, I love a camp-y Moschino, but nothing beats a well-edited offering that includes a perfectly tailored, felted double-faced cashmere peacoat or a sartorial jacket made from ultralight wool flannel. Zanini is a place for women (and now for men as well) who seek timeless, investment pieces that aren’t plain, cold minimalism, but got the human touch palpable in every single seam. More about the label’s #AW21 on the JOURNAL 💧 #FrancoFontana #Tailoring #SoftMinimalism #TimelessDesign #Cashmere #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌜 #collage by me.
PROPER CLASSICS 🌞 #DACBE: #KimJones‘ first collection for #Fendi, which was a haute couture line-up starring the designer’s friends like Demi Moore, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, polarised the audience. Surprisingly, his ready-to-wear debut wasn’t such noteworthy event – no big names among the models, and instead of some sort of Insta-extravaganza, we’ve seen a very classic, proper Fendi collection. More on the JOURNAL ☕️ P.s. This fur is upcycled! 🍮 #Milan #MFW #AW21 #FendiFur #Rome #LaDolceVita #TheClassics #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍁 #collage by me.
IN FOLKLORE WE TRUST 🌷 #DACBE: In #London, the new-gen designers thrive. #EmmaChopova and #LauraLowena, the design duo behind #ChopovaLowena, have always fused traditional folklore with sportswear, and this season they keep on building their style vocabulary. For #AW21, they put emphasis on the ‘uniform’ - and some new, exciting additions. More on the JOURNAL 💐 #LFW #Folklore #Sustainability #SustainableFashion #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦋 #collage by me.
THE DARKER SIDE 🌹 #DACBE: As #SimoneRocha put it in her own words, “We all feel very kind of internal at the moment; I wanted to look after that fragility, but give it a harder shell. I like how, at the beginning of the collection things appear tight and closed, but throughout the collection, the woman blooms open until the leathers are just strapped on. The shell breaks down, but the tulle keeps its strength.” More about her brilliant (and retrospective) #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 🖤 #LFW #London #Melancholy #Hope #FritzLang #DavidCasparFriedrich #Romance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦢 #collage by me.
REGAL 🫖 #DACBE: I’ve slept on most of #EmiliaWickstead‘s career, but the #AW21 line-up is quite something. This season, I feel like most brands and designer lean on styling too much, and in case of Wickstead, we see actual clothes, which are proof of excellent cut and tailoring. From the caped coats and suits to wonderfully refined eveningwear filled with couture-ish, lady-like silhouttes for day and evening, this is a regal, yet contemporary wardrobe for a modern-day dame. You know, that kind of Agatha Christie character, but living in social media times. And really, that woman doesn’t have a single pair of sweats on her racks. She will wear one of those shoulder-revealing dresses, in classy black or timeless florals, to a Zoom meeting (or a socially distanced five o’clock). More about the collection on the JOURNAL 🎹 #LFW #London #LadyLike #Elegance #FrancoFontana #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS ♟ #collage by me.
GREEN POWER 🌷 #DACBE: There’s an unofficial trend circulating this season: finding inspiration in powerful women from the past, often with a religiously-charged background. First, Bevza‘s designer mentioned Olga of Kiev as a reference for her knitted hoods and elongated silhouettes; yesterday, #GabrielaHearst talked about #HildegardofBingen. A writer, composer, philosopher, mystic, and Benedictine abbess, Hildegard was a regular Renaissance woman, except that she predated the Renaissance by about two centuries. “I’m convinced,” Hearst said, “that if she had been a man we’d know her name like we do Leonardo da Vinci’s.” More about Hearst’s beautiful line-up - balancing timeless design, sustainability and an elevated, otherworldly feeling - on the JOURNAL 🌿 #NewYork #NYFW #SoftMinimalism #SustainableFashion #Sustainability #AW21 #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🕊 #collage by me.
