Le Smoking

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The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking look is schanging every season, but always stays black, simple and classical. Even if it is now Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane! The campaigns of this famous Parisian style looks maybe slightly different (models for example) but usually it’s all about one beautiful women in the Le Smoking and other one totally naked! Just like in 1975, when Le Smoking began to be a bestseller of the master, Yves. After his death, Stefano Pilati came and strangely looking from persepective of now, FORGOT how the Le Smoking should look like! There were some black jackets but there was no this parisian chic thing. Now, when it’s Hedi, after few months later when his AW13 show was presented, I think Hedi Slimane keeps the tradition much better than Stefano! Just check Net A Porter- you look, and mostly we can see the elegant jackets and trousers to the Le Smoking costumes! It’s chick, luxurious and elegant but Ready to Wear! And now this amazing campaign with Cara Delevigne (advertising YSL Baby Doll) with this naked women… This is like a new Helmut Newton work (he took this fabulous pic in 1975 on Rue Aubriot in Paris).

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And today (but before Cara) Anja Rubik looks amazing in Le Smoking Slimane photography for his campaign. Here are pics of past Le Smoking campaigns and runway pics from Yves era! Chic, Chic!

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Cara-Delevingne

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And now just one thing… did you see the Louis Vuitton film for Love Magazine presenting top models (Cara, Magdalena Frackowiak…) walking naked in furs around Paris at night? And sitting in a car and doing sexy poses?  This film by James Lima did a lot controversy in the media worl, for example that LV accuses prostitution in their campaign! Well… in 1975 Helmut Newton did a controversy with his Smoking campaign and nobody set it’s prostitution. By the way, in 1975 (again) there was this TOTALLY naked (in film Cara wears fur) and there was no real commotion about it. And that was kind of good then? It is good, as well as the film. So for what do the politicians do this commotion? in reality, there is a really short moment when one model show some parts. I think this film is more about fashion and sensuality than about prostitutions. For sure for controversy that Marc Jacobs likes to do…But should we care? I like it, just as the amazing Le Smoking!

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Art de la Mode et de la Mode de l’Art

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That’s ain’t a discovery of America- fashion was and is and will be influenced by art and design. How? In geometry, form, fabric, colour, flower detail, a paint spot. The Louis Vuitton SS13 was all influenced by Daniel Buren geometric installations. The most dirty punk collection of AW13- Saint Laurent- had the flower motives from Yves Saint Laurent private collection of furnitures. Givenchy Pre Fall 13 collection add by the way print similarities to the CH07 by Hans Wegner armchair! In this crazy art world of trends, changes, cults, everything has it’s replacement. If we talk of Eames chairs I think of a Givenchy SS13 dress and Jil Sander AW12 coats that are so lite and delicate. Just like Ray and Charles Eames furnitures! Oh, and my less known to most interest are of course furnitures and specifically- chairs!

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Summertime Sadness

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Is it a “sad” campaign marathon? After seeing Marc Jacobs “zombie” models that made me feel intrigued and interested, now I see Cara Delevigne at Saint Laurent. First of all, Cara is very sensitive, kind of crazy and fun person- in this campaign, unfortunately, she looks like a bird closed in a cage. It’s all so not right- The Hedi Slimane photography talent (unfortunately, I never have an occasion to feel it) is poor, the clothes look like Topshop from past years and everything is not on right place. Here, much better would do Kate Moss (her maturity, sex appeal and so on) on a leather sofa, in leather mini skirt from collection and looking like on high. For sure not Cara, in the background of see and an old villa with an ultra skinny boy. This shoot is too depressing for me, and totally without any sense. It had to be punk, rock and roll, Courtney Love, it went out as always shitty.

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