Misplaced Classics. Carven AW24

Louise Trotter‘s sophomore collection for Carven signals that Paris has a new go-to brand for unconstrained elegance. “I have continued to develop the wardrobe archetypes, the everyday made precious, brought to life in unexpected context, fabrication and proportion. The allure of being dressed up and yet in stages of undress; a space where there is no separation between daywear and evening and where typical daywear silhouettes and fabrics morph into atypical occasion or evening wear. Misplaced classics infused with the comfort and ease of sportswear,” the designer summed up. From the restrained and tonal palette to the masculine-feminine permutations of fabric and shape, there’s a lot to covet. Interestingly, Trotter acknowledged the brand’s history. Madame Carven’s legacy was alive in the column and hourglass silhouettes. And all that stunningly styled by Suzanne Koller. More and more industry insiders are lured by the new charm of Carven, so I expect it to be firing up any second.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Start Anew. Carven SS24

It’s been a while since the last time we’ve heard about Carven. It’s a tricky French maison to revive: it has a vast archive and heritage, but somehow, for years, nobody could position the brand the right way for the contemporary times. But it seems it finally found its person: the hyper-talented Louise Trotter. Her Carven debut is one of the biggest highlights of this Paris Fashion Week. Ahead of her spring-summer 2024 fashion show, Trotter had voiced her desire to start the brand anew. That didn’t mean total erasure of the brand’s identity. Established in 1945, Carven was known for its hourglass silhouette. The British creative director referenced it through powerful shoulders and nipped-in waists. Throughout its 40 looks, styled by Suzanne Koller, the designer is redefining timeless wardrobe essentials. Cinched trench coats, transparent white shirts, elegant black dresses: Carven delivers a new layer to the eternal myth of Parisian chic. For Trotter, simplicity does not mean boring; the designer made sure to explore different textures. Sheer skirts and tops were a standout in the collection, especially when layered on top of heavyweight short dresses, just like the beading of the accessories. Watch this space!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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