The New Sexy. Khaite Pre-Fall 2020

For pre-fall 2020, Catherine Holstein tweaked some familiar Khaite hits – Victorian blouses, romantic tulle dresses,  Western skirts, timeless denim – and sprinkled in a touch of 1960s rock & roll glamour. That said, the designer felt her greatest departure was in the ultra-short minidresses and body-hugging ruched gowns. “I’ve always avoided using the word ‘sexy’ to describe the clothes,” she said. “I would call them ‘sensual,’ which sounded more modern, or maybe more feminist. But I really wanted to embrace the idea of sexy and what that means for our woman right now.” Beyond the sheer blouses and minis, even the suits had a curvier, more womanly fit, with narrow, high-rise trousers and snug blazers. The sexiest look of all might have been the ivory pantsuit, shown with a black leather belt and nothing else.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Urban Romance. Khaite SS20

Khaite had the best possible breakthrough moment to the wider audience about a week ago, when Katie Holmes wore that cashmere bralette-and-cardigan look and everyone went crazy. But the label’s founder and designer, Catherine Holstein, doesn’t rest on laurels and isn’t planning to sell knitted bras for the rest of her life. The spring-summer 2020 collection was all about urban romance, full of contrasts: suede fringed jackets and sheer tulle dresses, rhinestone embellishings and denim, sharp tailoring combined with sarongs. “I wanted it to feel more sensual,” Holstein said. “It’s a riskier take, especially for a line that’s kind of synonymous with ‘easy.’ But there’s a side of me that loves a sense of gaudiness and flash . . . I’m so much more into that than a minimalist approach, so I want to start incorporating those aspects into my work.” Khaite isn’t a brand that will shock you with something new (I wonder who does so today…), but it’s the place to look at when you’re not sure what’s relevant now. Looking at the brand’s new season, keep everything you’ve got in your wardrobe for the next summer – lace, tartan plaid, florals, ripped jeans, big shoulders, cowboy jackets, everything will work.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Women. Khaite Resort 2020

After three years of existence, Catherine Holstein‘s Khaite is well-known throughout the industry and  obsessed over by women of varying ages, occupations, and tastes around the world. This New York-based brand, recently nominated for Emerging Designer of the Year by CFDA Awards, does clothes according to the idea ‘from a woman to women’. From confident tailoring and Southwestern-inspired daywear to entrance-making, but unpretentious eveningwear, the resort 2020 collection has it all. You just can’t ignore Khaite’s velvet little black dress or denim pants with a suede finishing. A tulle dress, which might sound like a challenge, looks surprisingly approachable. And super lightweight. Those women-lead brands from New York (The Row, Rosie Assoulin, Bode, Colina Strada, Batsheva…) are so, so good. Khaite’s on the list.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.