“Charles who?” was the general reaction when the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced that its next fashion exhibition, opening May 8, would be Charles James: Beyond Fashion. No, the designer, who worked from the twenties through his death in the seventies, is not as infamous as the punks or as well known as McQueen—but he’s no less important, fascinating, or even exciting. James, a flamboyant character who, born in England, spent his most productive years in New York, was, along with Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, one of the most forward-thinking, innovative designers of his time. You have him to thank for the cupless bra, the puffer coat, and that zipper in the back of your evening gown. The designer was best known as a master of sculpture—instead of fitting to a mannequin, he would craft epic forms, inspired by his background in millinery and architecture, and structure his gowns around them.”