Innocence. Chloé Pre-Fall 2026

There’s just something about Chemena Kamali’s Chloé girl that never grows tiresome. Yes, she has a fixation on the past – but it’s a charming one. For pre-fall 2026 – shot by Mark Kean, who has an incredible way of capturing blown-out hair and a certain innocence in his subjects – Kamali proposes a strikingly chic formula: a basic henley elevated by a draped pencil skirt and a leather basque belt. Easy, flirty, fun. Elsewhere, a ruffled blouse – modeled after the Chloé dress Karl Lagerfeld designed for Paloma Picasso’s wedding – is dressed down with stretch-velvet stirrup pants, creating a look that feels Parisian in a postcard way, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Kamali is only approaching her third year at Chloé, yet it feels as though she’s been thriving there for an era (she did, after all, work at the house under Phoebe Philo’s helm in the early 2000s, so this tracks). She has rebuilt the brand into a sanctuary of unpretentious, witty femininity, with each collection reading as a natural continuation of the last. Kamali herself notes, “what I get as feedback is that you can mix the collections quite well – pieces from the first show with last season’s pre-collection, say.” This isn’t a PR line; it’s a fact easily observed on the streets of Paris.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Tiered Organic Silk-mousseline Maxi Skirt



Chloé Eve Suede Over-the-knee Boots



Chloé Embellished Cotton-velvet Jacket



Chloé Gathered Tie-detailed Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Mini Dress



Chloé Wool-crepe Straight-leg Pants



Chloé Jeanette Studded Platform Clogs

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Quirky. Chloé SS26

Although Chemena Kamali drew inspiration from Gaby Aghion’s (Chloé’s founder) archives from the 1950s and ’60s, she managed to reinterpret the mini dresses with bubbly, couture-like shapes in a contemporary, quirky-but-chic way. At first, I wasn’t sure about the fullness of some of the floral bows and drapes – often rendered in acidic colourways and styled with contrasting leggings – but there’s something undeniably fascinating about the oddness of this silhouette. I’m also obsessed with the distinctly 1980s make-up moment: the flashy, bold pink lipstick that creates a cool tension against the “safe” beiges of the shoulder-padded trench coats. Add to that the PVC sandals and Vanessa Beecroft’s photographic lens at the show, and you get a fresh, not so obvious vision of the Chloé-by-Chemena girl – less lace-y and Sienna Miller-esque than before.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Paddington Embellished Leather Tote


Chloé Gathered Cotton-dupioni Jacket


Chloé Floral-brocade Mini Skirt


Chloé Misty Laser-cut Leather Ballet Flats


Chloé Ribbed Cotton Top


Chloé High-rise Wide-leg Jeans

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Frivolous. Chloé Resort 2026

Chemena Kamali‘s Chloé has been vintage-inspired and infused with nostalgia since her debut collection, but it seems the designer is letting some more frivolity to her work. The Chloé girl is ultimately a fun girl: striding the streets of Paris in clogs (a reference to Phoebe Philo’s tenure at the brand), swirling and dancing in flou silks and floating dresses, looking like a nonchalant, mysterious character straight out of a Guy Bourdin photograph. Immersing herself in early ’80s movies, like Brian de Palma’s thriller “Dressed to Kill” and Bette Gordon’s “Variety”, Kamali isn’t exactly interested in the (very exhausted) notion of power-dressing, but rather blending the era’s seemingly-naïve femininity with its by-gone, chic attitude. Bold and quirky shades of cobalt and aquamarine go in pair with sensual lace trims and the irresistibly joyful flamingo motif. Oui, oui, oui.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Lace-trimmed Silk-jacquard Camisole


 

Chloé Frayed High-rise Flared Jeans


Chloé Eve Leather Over-the-knee Boots


Chloé Bracelet Embellished Suede And Snake-effect Leather Shoulder Bag


Chloé Ruffled Floral-print Cotton-voile Mini Dress


Chloé Button-embellished Wool-blend Bouclé Mini Skirt


Chloé Kick Suede, Mesh And Leather High-top Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femme. Chloé AW25

Oh to be a Chloé girl in the Chloé world. Undone hair and blushing, au naturel. In her floor-sweeping silk skirt (she doesn’t care whether it gets wet in a Parisian puddle) and embroidered, satin jacket that looks like an antique find at Paul Bert Serpette. Chemena Kamali envisions her woman (or rather an eternal girl) through a nostalgia-tinged lens, frivolously mixing various Chloé references across decades: Lagerfeldian dolman-sleeved blouses, McCartney’s feminine sense of fun, Philo’s Paddington bag (it’s so back). There’s also a sense of naughty decadence about that femme: the scarves with fluffy pompoms caused a stir on social media, accidentally (or not) sparking the world-old debate: to fur or not to fur? The autumn-winter 2025 had an unexpected shift: from soft-focus romantic boho girl (but done in the 2000s London it-girl way) to the shoulder-padded and miniskirted power-look of early ’80s. “In a way, a woman’s wardrobe evolves naturally over time. It’s uncurated. You buy things throughout time, you collect them, keep them, give them away, sometimes you rediscover them.” A valid point made.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Luna Cutout Leather Ballet Flats


Chloé Ruffled Silk-georgette Blouse


Chloé Bracelet Embellished Textured-leather Shoulder Bag


Chloé Cropped Leopard-print Cotton-velvet Straight-leg Pants


Chloé Kick Suede And Leather-trimmed Mesh Sneakers


Chloé Oversized Belted Shearling-trimmed Leather Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lightness. Chloé SS25

Pardon my review absence for the last couple of days, but I was in Paris for fashion week. I’m catching up now – equipped with a much-needed, refreshed perspective on what’s going on in the industry, IRL. Let’s start with Chloé!

Chemena Kamali is on a roll. It’s her second full season at Chloé, and the way her take on the brand resonates with the industry – and clients who are literally storming the boutiques in Paris! – is a rare thing to see nowadays. Also, comparing to other designers this season, she presented a proper, summer collection that actually felt summer-ish. And just like in her confident debut, Kamali once again showcases her intimate understanding of Chloé’s history. Photos of Karl Lagerfeld designed collections were pinned to the mood board in her studio. Two of her most inspired lifts were the waist shapers of spring 1977 and the lace bloomers of spring 1978. Jackets – in sturdy workwear cotton or soft suede – gave the sensual lightness of these pieces a reality check. It’s good to see flou femininity back on Chloé runway – for some reason, Kamali’s predecessors thought it wasn’t the right thing to channel. But there’s a new sense of strength in these carefree girls and women wearing floral-bouquet-print dresses in cascades of ruffled chiffon.

And speaking of Chloé stores in Paris, here’s what I saw at the rue de Saint-Honore boutique: the perfect marriage between retail and art. Mie Olise Kjærgaard‘s absolutely beautiful paintings are exhibited across the entire space, perfectly matching the current season.

And FYI, here’s what you should get from new Chloé!

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Mona Fringed Leather Pumps


Chloé Cape-effect Open-back Ruffled Silk-crepon Gown


Chloé High-rise Wide-leg Jeans


Chloé Eve Ruffled Suede Knee Boots


Chloé Bracelet Embellished Leather Shoulder Bag

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited